Thread: Help with factory edge

Watch the dovo video on youtube of how the edges are made at the factory as well as how many razors they produce, then you will understand the nature of what you are getting and why.

As i see it there seems to be some confusion over sharpening and setting the bevel,to me a bevel set with a 8000 or equivalant hone is sharp by default,and to say there is a seperation between a bevel set and sharpening
is false,also to say the leather strop doesnt further sharpen again is false,i have a japanese razor i use in my rotation which is superb where the URA side has never been honed ,and has only been honed the one side but had the same 10 flax 50 leather the same as the others and there is a beautiful but fine bevel on the URA side,showing what the flax/leather does no abrasive paste or anything used

“i normally do it with an 8000 or lately a very old scotch rock oilstone pretty fine,dont fancy anything corser,would be quicker i suppose,unless your doing it for a living and have a hundred to do i dont see the point”

Actually you are correct, for most, one or two hones is plenty to maintain a razor. Many did for hundreds of years, with one stone and later with a two sided barber hone. I did, for years, with a small translucent, linen and leather.

Which is why I have done these test with high grit synthetic stones, 4,8 &12K. All are capable of setting a bevel and fairly quickly and the 8 &12K can produce a very shavable edge, as we well know.

For most a good 8 or 12K and linen and leather is all one would need. Those of us that do much more honing, a 1K progression makes it go much quicker.

With a factory edge I wil usually look at it thu th
E microscope and then sa " What the hell, why not! " and set my own bevel and then go through the grits until nirvana happens.

Originally Posted by adductum

As i see it there seems to be some confusion over sharpening and setting the bevel,to me a bevel set with a 8000 or equivalant hone is sharp by default,and to say there is a seperation between a bevel set and sharpening
is false,also to say the leather strop doesnt further sharpen again is false,i have a japanese razor i use in my rotation which is superb where the URA side has never been honed ,and has only been honed the one side but had the same 10 flax 50 leather the same as the others and there is a beautiful but fine bevel on the URA side,showing what the flax/leather does no abrasive paste or anything used

First off, I would appreciate sentences.

Regarding honing--no, there is no distinct separation between bevel setting and sharpening. They are a progression. However, it is ludicrous to suggest bevel setting with an 8k hone to be a viable option. Since you suggest that a strop can sharpen an edge, then you might as well try setting a bevel with a strop. Personally, I don't recommend it.

Bevel setting simply is the first phase of honing. It is most easily accomplished with a hone more coarse than an 8k. The edge does not begin to get sharp until the bevels meet in a V shape and it is the meeting of those bevels that defines the bevel set. Sharpening is merely the refining of the apex of the V of the edge.

To the OP...I like the progression you performed. My personal approach is to use the least aggressive method first.
If I was a new guy again I would have used your progression. In your case, on this razor, it worked. On other razors I would suggest starting with the 4K.

Any razor that is not honed by a pro (Lynn, gssixgun, etc.) needs to have the bevel reset, be it NOS, factory, eBay special, whatever. I have had a few NOS factory edges, none were shave ready, and I reset the bevel first thing. A 1k hone is best for bevel setting, it can be done on a 4k if the edge doesn't have any damage, it just takes a little long. Setting a bevel with an 8k?...................life's too short!

Sorry Utopian my explanation/description of my Iwasaki was correct it hasnt been honed on the URA side.It just hi lighted the abrasive/friction
of a leather/flax strop.Viable or not i have set a working bevel on all but 2 of my razors 16 in total with an 8000 stone took a while though maybe, didnt record the time, 2x hours each i think far less.I totally disagree that bevel setting simply the first stage of honing,to me it is the only stage of honing.Anyhow i didnt mean to imply by my explanation of the Iwasaki that a bevel could be set with a leather/flax strop,as by sharpening the Iwasaki the one side a perfect V is formed with i suppose a burr on the URA side ,anyhow the leather/flax has created a small but perfect bevel,and razor shaves beautifully,proof is in the eating i suppose

Originally Posted by DoughBoy68

Any razor that is not honed by a pro (Lynn, gssixgun, etc.) needs to have the bevel reset, be it NOS, factory, eBay special, whatever. I have had a few NOS factory edges, none were shave ready, and I reset the bevel first thing. A 1k hone is best for bevel setting, it can be done on a 4k if the edge doesn't have any damage, it just takes a little long. Setting a bevel with an 8k?...................life's too short!

Hmm. I brought a Taylors eye witness from an antique shop on sat, no visible hone wear. Must be 60/70 years old. 10 laps on naniwa specialty 10k, 15 laps on gokumyo 20k and she shaves like a champ.
Had NOS razors that ive just stropped and were good to go and a few that needed a bevel set. Luck of the draw I guess.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

To the OP...I like the progression you performed. My personal approach is to use the least aggressive method first.
If I was a new guy again I would have used your progression. In your case, on this razor, it worked. On other razors I would suggest starting with the 4K.

Thanks. The advice I've gotten here is obviously paying off!