Thread: How to proceed with 5/8 full hollow?

If it has some hone wear, maybe try a 2nd layer of tape. Also look up rolling x-stroke.

Make sure it cuts arm hair uniformly across the whole blade on your lowest grit hone before moving up. Test often during the honing process

I didn't see any white line when looking at the edge from the top, although not a lot of experience with a loupe. I tried the wet thumbnail test and it was good.

I will try it with another layer of tape and see if that helps.

I went back down to the 1k Norton and worked up to the 8k a couple of times, but still now sharp enough.

The edge at the heel is at the stabilizer. That could be part of the problem, so I will probably have to figure a way to grind that down a bit.

Thanks

Issues of not sharp enough is often the bevel not being fully set, or another way of putting it is that the apex is not true the whole way down the blade. It is the lacking in the apex that cases the dullness. Dropping back down to the 1K is where the bulk of the steel removal happens. It still happens at higher grits but is a little more tricky to get it done with any speed. To cut the heel, the most effect thing is a DMT. You can do it with a 600 grit hone but it usually causes quite a bit of wear. If you are doing it on a stone you should use the edge. Just gently rock the heel on the edge in tiny circles to reshape the heel a little.
Also, remember that the thumbnail test is a destructive test and you need to do a little more work on the 1K after it to get back to where it was before the test and do not perform it after the 1K. It does not take much to get back on track, 20 strokes or so should have you on target. I am happy you have gotten it sharp enough.

You have not set the bevel and are using the wrong stroke, as did the previous owner. If you continue to use more pressure on the toe with a straight stroke, you will wear the spine at the toe and make the problem worst.

Use a rolling x stroke, to hone the bevel on the stone evenly, ink on the bevel and tape on the spine will tell you if you are honing to the edge and protect the spine from more damage. If the wear is excessive, you will need 2 layers of tape, change tape often. Ink on the stabilizer will tell you if it is hitting the stone.

Do not move to higher grit stones until you are absolutely sure you have completely set the bevel.

Additionally too much pressure on a full hollow grind, will lift the edge off the stone, ink will tell you if your are honing to the edge.

A clear, close up photo would help identify any specific defect on the razor.

I have been using a rolling swooping stroke with a little pressure on the edge. I attached a photo of the razor for the overall look (only have a webcam) The razor on the side showing has wear on the spine, more in the middle as well on the edge. On the opposite side the wear is less and it is even. I used a marker on the edge. The hone is hitting the stabilizer a bit. On the side showing there was some black on the last 1/2" at the toe. The opposite side was ok.

So I thought the razor had a smiling edge, it looks like it has a frown and probably so, if the stabilizer is hitting and more pressure was used, trying to get the heel on the stone.

Determine if the edge is frowning by putting the edge on a flat surface, edge down. If so lightly bread knife on a diamond plate or the side of a 1k stone.

Grind the stabilizer with a Dremel and fine grit sanding drum or a diamond file. Ink the stabilizer to see your progress.
Ink the stabilizer and edge and put on a high grit stone to check your progress and when the heel is on the stone without the stabilizer making contact. If you use a Dremel go slowly with light even strokes, watch the rotation of the drum, ensuring it is turning away from the edge.


Better photos would help.

This will help you with correcting the heel http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ing-heels.html