Thread: Dead blade?

Hi SRP folks,

recently i had a blade which was in good condition and needed to restore it. yesterday i spent almost 6h for clean and hone it.

i started with 10 passes on a DMT for delete the chips in the bevel. after this, 150 passes on a 1k. Well this is the 1st time i see, a blade keep the tiny chips in the bevel. I returned on DMT and more passe to have a bevel correct. they are still there. One more time on DMT but i put it 90° and deleted the bevel to restart all. Then i put the blade on the stone (not 90°) and start to hone it on 1k. Well this time there is no chips in the bevel but it doesn't cut even the arm hairs. I go back on DMT 20 passes and here we are, i see tiny chips again in the bevel. i spent 5 hours with this.

Second time; and i put the blade on stone with 90° and get a clean bevel. Then 1k and 300 passes; nothing! i just wanted to see if it will be better with finer stones. so i tried a 2-3k; result is nothing. then 5k; still nothing. than coticule; as you guess, nothing.

I'm hopeless. Do you have any i idea what's wrong? did you ever had a similar blade? how did you get over these chips?

Here a pic of the blade after all these processus;



and a close look to edge/bevel for see it better


PS: english is not my main language so maybe there is some faults. Just tell me if you don't understand. i will try to be more clear.

What type of razor is it? If it is a good quality razor I would stay away from the DMT for now and stick to the 1k and try not to use much pressure. One thing that has been said on here before is to set the razor down and walk away and try it again another day. I have had razors that I spent hours on and nothing to show for it, but once I set it aside for a day or two and come back it hones up perfectly. The hands and the eyes get tired after awhile and a razor is somewhat delicate.

Add two layers of tape and see if you can set bevel, if the chipping continues, you may have a junky blade in your hands.

DMT 325 ????

They will put deep scratches into the bevel that is why you "Lift the Spine" when using them for edge restoration
That way the scratches are only on the very front of the bevel and when you switch to the 1k to actually set the bevel they come out of there really fast and you don't waste steel or end up with a Chippy bevel ...


Here


http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html

Originally Posted by Oustoura

Hi SRP folks,
recently i had a blade which was in good condition and needed to restore it. yesterday i spent almost 6h for clean and hone it.

i started with 10 passes on a DMT for delete the chips in the bevel. after this, 150 passes on a 1k. Well this is the 1st time i see, a blade keep the tiny chips in the bevel. I returned on DMT and more passe to have a bevel correct. they are still there. One more time on DMT but i put it 90° and deleted the bevel to restart all. Then i put the blade on the stone (not 90°) and start to hone it on 1k. Well this time there is no chips in the bevel but it doesn't cut even the arm hairs. I go back on DMT 20 passes and here we are, i see tiny chips again in the bevel. i spent 5 hours with this.

Second time; and i put the blade on stone with 90° and get a clean bevel. Then 1k and 300 passes; nothing! i just wanted to see if it will be better with finer stones. so i tried a 2-3k; result is nothing. then 5k; still nothing. than coticule; as you guess, nothing.

I'm hopeless. Do you have any i idea what's wrong? did you ever had a similar blade? how did you get over these chips?

Here a pic of the blade after all these processus;



and a close look to edge/bevel for see it better


PS: english is not my main language so maybe there is some faults. Just tell me if you don't understand. i will try to be more clear.

put it down , walk away, razor and you live to hone and be honed another day.
I would not go past 1k until you have a bevel set, you may want to tape the spine, since it sounds like this may take awhile
do about 20 clock wise and counter clockwise circles on each side then try the standing hair test all the way down the blade, then go to blur next hone, your bevel is set so your just refining it. and always uses even pressure

i forgot to mention that i already tried with tape and i did not go any further. Actually i can have a clean bevel after i passe the edge with 90° on DMT but the chips don't stop to come back

Originally Posted by gssixgun

DMT 325 ????

They will put deep scratches into the bevel that is why you "Lift the Spine" when using them for edge restoration
That way the scratches are only on the very front of the bevel and when you switch to the 1k to actually set the bevel they come out of there really fast and you don't waste steel or end up with a Chippy bevel ...


Here


http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...l-setting.html

actually i tried many angles but the chips just come back.

Originally Posted by whoever

put it down , walk away, razor and you live to hone and be honed another day.
I would not go past 1k until you have a bevel set, you may want to tape the spine, since it sounds like this may take awhile
do about 20 clock wise and counter clockwise circles on each side then try the standing hair test all the way down the blade, then go to blur next hone, your bevel is set so your just refining it. and always uses even pressure

that what i did. i left for now. maybe tomorrow i will take it back for see on 1k (not DMT) and try to go slowly.

Actually this is my first blade which does not want to have a clean bevel. the chips come back always. i was wondering if the blade is dead or another problem with it.

BTW it's a "ROMA" for the mark.

Originally Posted by Oustoura

i forgot to mention that i already tried with tape and i did not go any further. Actually i can have a clean bevel after i passe the edge with 90° on DMT but the chips don't stop to come back

get off the DMT its to aggressive
and you shouldn't go above a 20 degree angle

Once that starts, it is hard to get it out, FME. Breadboard it on a glass bottle and strop it good on the stiffest fabric you have.
Go to a 1k with 2 layers to smooth it out. take a layer off and work a while.

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Once that starts, it is hard to get it out, FME. Breadboard it on a glass bottle and strop it good on the stiffest fabric you have.
Go to a 1k with 2 layers to smooth it out. take a layer off and work a while.

why a glass bottle why not any surface ? ie cork