Thread: A Noob & His Hone.

I see hone wear

Yup, it was just the photo. The spine looks ok with just some wonky spine wear.

Put 2 layers of tape on it and set the bevel on a piece of 800 or 1k wet and dry cut into 3in strips, wet and stick to a flat glass tile (Lowe’s $6).

Use the 45 degree strokes method to remove the chip, should not take that long. Stop just short of the bottom of the chip.

Then set the bevel on the 1k paper and finish on the 12K.

Actually this kind of repair is where breadknifing excels.

I don’t know what the resistance to breadknifeing is, no matter how you do it, you have to remove the exact same amount of metal to remove the chip.

You are not removing the chip, you are removing all the other steel on the edge to the same level as the bottom of the chip.

Breadknifing is easier and quicker, you can just hone it out but for a new guy, run the risk of burning through the tape and messing up the spine and edge. I’d recommend this, if you had a low grit stone or diamond plate. I have never done it with W&D, so just 45 degree it.

The chip is small and the edge thin, it should go quickly.

Euclid, your thread on 12k chip removal/bevel set in "advanced honing techniques" is what helped me decide to go with a 12k, instead of a 4k/8k combo.

In that thread, you mention & explain Alex Gilmore’s method of honing quite well. After watching a couple of his vids, & re-reading your thread, I'm a bit more comfortable with the idea breadknifing the chip out. I agree with stopping just short of completely removing the chip before bevel set.

Gonna try to duplicate what you did in that thread, though I'm using the M5 ceramic rather than the glass series.

I also noticed that Alex's stroke, in the videos I watched, is like what I was trying to describe for my own stroke. Though, I had was still doing both toward & away strokes. I was considering only toward me strokes, flipping the razor from hand to hand, to keep my eye on the edge at all times... because I'm meticulous like that!

"If it's worth doing once, it's worth doing right the first time." -My Father.

Crawler, this being your first attempt at honing, and that being an advanced honing technique, this might not be the "doing right the first time approach". My advice would be send it out for restoration if you think the blade is worth it. If you're set on honing it yourself, you'll save a lot of time and frustration by using a hone better suited for bevelsetting as a couple others have mentioned already. Or maybe consider purchasing a shaveready blade and touching it up as needed in the future with your 12k

This is not so much a wrong way to do it as it is a slower, more demanding way. Good luck however you proceed!

Yes, but you have a much larger chip and I have never use a Shapton 12k Ceramic . I know you could do it on a 12k Super Stone, just take a bit more time.

Use the 1k wet and dry or just take your time with the 45 degree stroke.

Worst case you have to send it out, either way the chip has to come out.

If it doesn’t work for you, send it to me, PM me.

Follow euclid's advice, he has helped me tremendously in the past.

check this out:
http://straightrazorpalace.com/advan...ml#post1254386

Get some 1k wet dry. Follow the tutorial in the link. After setting the bevel you can get the rest done on your 12k it will just take some time. Just take your time with your 320 w/d.

Good luck, keep us updated as to your progress.

No advice to give, I am noob at honing as well. I will be intrested to see how this comes out for you.

I took the opportunity to work on this after the wife went to sleep last night. I spent a few meditative hours working that chip. No TV, just my supplies, the rhythmic sounds of stone & steel, and my counting. I'll try to break it down without being too long winded lol.

I opted for "splash & go" with a spray bottle of water this time, rather than soaking the stone for 10 minutes. I already planned on spending a significant amount of time on it, so it would be wet long enough through the night without a soak.

Two layers of tape. Watched some vids on circle strokes, gave that a whirl. Seemed to go okay. Sets of 15 circles on each side. I didn't bother counting the number of sets at any point, it was gonna be a long session. Occasionally, doing a few sets of 10-20 straight strokes (angled to fit the whole blade on the stone) on each side.

The water turned grey frequently, and I was rinsing the stone off almost as frequently. Every time I took it to the sink to rinse off, I also gave it a dozen or two swipes on my homebrew lapping tile.

About the third refresh on the tape, I got tired of wasting so much time fooling with tape & scissors. So I put three layers of tape on the spine, and went to town.

At this point, I also changed my stroke pattern again. I went to half laps, edge facing me, staying on the stone for both back & forth motions, angled with heel leading. 10 on each side. Occasionally, I would do this with the blade straight across the stone to change stria direction.

Did I mention changing the tape got tedious? Cause I just left those 3 layers on for the last almost two hours of the honing session. Still rinsed the stone off frequently. That got tedious too. So I put some water in an empty Tupperware the wife uses for crafts, and started using that to rinse off the hone & blade without going all the way to the sink.

I tried breadknifing on the corner of my hone to work the chip out... gave up on that when the chip didn't go anywhere, and the blade put some pretty good grooves in the stone lol. Tufpug 1. Shapton 0. Maybe I'll revisit that with one of the fine files I picked up for de-pinning?

Finally seemed notice some progress a little after bedtime, so I called it for the night.

Brief followup pics to come .

Straight down view. Toothpick pointing to the chip.


Lower angle view.


"Face side" bevel shot.


"Back side" bevel shot.

I noticed something during one of the tape changes & accompanying edge inspection. The bevel is shorter in the middle, & longer at the heel and toe on the face side. On the back side, the bevel is shorter at the heel & toe, and longer in the middle. There is corresponding hone wear on the spine from the razor's previous life.

Logic dictates that this points to a slightly warped blade geometry.

I made note of this & moved on, because my primary goal is removal of the chip & practice honing. I'll burn that bridge when I get to it