Thread: Honing Stainless Steel

Hi guys,
I've been honing my brothers Dovo's over the past few days.
I did the first 4 and they came out perfect. All done with the 1k then the Jnat Nagura progression.
The last in the bunch is this one : Dovo En Vogue 105 Ice Tempered Frozen Steel, 5/8ths full hollow I think.

I've only just realised that its Stainless Steel.
I have honed it twice now with no success. I did notice that the Botan removed all of the 1k scratch marks which doesn't normally happen so I thought that maybe it was a softer mushier metal and then honed it with less pressure and strokes. Still no joy.

Am I missing some thing , I did read once that Stainless Steel requires more work than carbon but it seems a softer metal.
Look forward to some advise ..
Cheers

Stainless steel tends to be a little more abrasion resistant than regular high-carbon steel, but honing full-hollow razors of either type of steel usually takes about the same amount of time. First thing that comes to mind about your razor is that if it got pretty dull then you need to spend more time on the 1k to make sure the bevel is set. Not really special advice, I know, but when a problem is encountered going back to the basics is often a good course of action. Good luck!

One other thought: If you do need to do a significant amount of work to set the bevel, then watch for the formation of a wire edge. You might want to do a thumbnail test to check for that and de-burr by your favorite method before finishing off the bevel.

This is a very common subject that has come up over and over. The common opinion is that stainless may take a few trips more than carbon steel but in the scheme of things there is no great difference between the two honing wise.

My own experience bears this out. I have some Carbon razors that take way more time to hone than any stainless model.

I am with the other two. I would like to add that you should have a good loupe so you can check to see that the bevel is true before moving up. If your bevel is a perfect apex from heel to toe, the polish just refines it, however if it is not you get nothing.

Just a few strokes no way . I have honed a few stainless razors and they are pain in the a....
I notice that a litle more presure in the finishing stage gives better results . They a tuff blades , they did not understand from easy and light strokes .The presure on a hard hone is the only way for me .
Last time one stainless Cornetta 4/8 make me look like a schoolgirl with all my naturals . ha ha ha

Originally Posted by RusenBG

Just a few strokes no way . I have honed a few stainless razors and they are pain in the a....
I notice that a litle more presure in the finishing stage gives better results . They a tuff blades , they did not understand from easy and light strokes .The presure on a hard hone is the only way for me .
Last time one stainless Cornetta 4/8 make me look like a schoolgirl with all my naturals . ha ha ha

I've just put it to one side as I have so much honing to do.
Looking at it under the scope made me realise that another blade I could never hone properly is also stainless steel.
My first ever razor, a gift, 5/8th hollow Dovo. Sent it out twice for honing and it still didn't shave.
I look forward to figuring them out when I have time....

Like the others have said, I find stainless steel razors not much different to hone than regular carbon steel razors. It might be the hones I am using, Naniwa Super Stones. Of course as others have mentioned too, the bevel set is the most important part. Without a good bevel set you are just polishing a turd.

Have you checked the razor for a warp/twist? If it has one you may have to perform some honing gymnastics like heel forward rolling X strokes.

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

Like the others have said, I find stainless steel razors not much different to hone than regular carbon steel razors. It might be the hones I am using, Naniwa Super Stones. Of course as others have mentioned too, the bevel set is the most important part. Without a good bevel set you are just polishing a turd.

Have you checked the razor for a warp/twist? If it has one you may have to perform some honing gymnastics like heel forward rolling X strokes.

Bob

The 5/8ths Dovo my first razor , I want to have a go at it when I have time , its just sat there for a couple of years.
The ice tempered one which is my brothers I've honed a good few times but it was only recently I realised it was stainless steel. I have set the bevel every time with no problems and it is really flat, maybe the tip on one side dosnt quite sit flat but rolling x's sorts that out. I always get it to popping tree top hairs but the shave itself is no good as my bro reports.
But now I've taken to honing his blades and then having a full shave with them to make sure they are good to go.
From the look of the metal under the scope it gave me the impression that it was a softer mushier metal.
But I think I got that wrong and probably some extra work finishing might do the job.

It is quite strange over all because I know you guys know what your talking about so if you say there is not much difference between carbon and stainless then that's that.
An extra 5-10 mins on the jnat will be my next test
Cheers

Originally Posted by JOB15

The 5/8ths Dovo my first razor , I want to have a go at it when I have time , its just sat there for a couple of years.
The ice tempered one which is my brothers I've honed a good few times but it was only recently I realised it was stainless steel. I have set the bevel every time with no problems and it is really flat, maybe the tip on one side dosnt quite sit flat but rolling x's sorts that out. I always get it to popping tree top hairs but the shave itself is no good as my bro reports.
But now I've taken to honing his blades and then having a full shave with them to make sure they are good to go.
From the look of the metal under the scope it gave me the impression that it was a softer mushier metal.
But I think I got that wrong and probably some extra work finishing might do the job.

It is quite strange over all because I know you guys know what your talking about so if you say there is not much difference between carbon and stainless then that's that.
An extra 5-10 mins on the jnat will be my next test
Cheers

I don't know what hones the others are using but that could be a variable also. I use Naniwa super stones 1k, 3K, 8K, 12K then 10 on English linen and 60 or so on shell cordovan leather.

Bob

At the moment im on the chosera 5k to refresh the bevel then the 10k for a while .
After that I drag the edge on the side of the 10k and then bring it back to life on the same 10k.
Then I'm on the Maruka with a koma and tomo...
Seems to work a treat.
I might try the stainless steel on Shapton glass 1k,4k,8k,16k Jnat+Tomo or possibly just stop at the 16k