Thread: honing old wedge blade without making a large edge

Originally Posted by WW243

So a smiling edge lays flat on the hone, just not all at once. Right?

Not sure that I follow you, but IMO a smiling edge is actually superior to a straight edge as every part of the edge is honed in its own time as the razor passes down the hone.

Originally Posted by WW243

Gotcha, but the spine and the edge will always be in contact because the spine at some point is only partially on the hone. So a smiling edge lays flat on the hone, just not all at once. Right?

I think that's exactly right WW. I have a Saito Japanese razor- the one that has an extreme curve - so it would be very easy to hone a 'flat' into the bevel if you did not use a rolling stroke. However, in order to keep the bevel even, the spine and edge have to both be touching the hone during the rolling action.

Originally Posted by MODINE

If you want to shave with it, you may have to sacrifice visual aesthetics. Too much emphasis on spine wear and bevel wear, so long as it shaves well IMO. If you do not like spine wear, hone without tape until the bevel is correctly set. Then take it back to the buffers and buff out the spine wear and use one layer of tape to re-set your bevel.
Mike

Funny you say that. I have been honing without tape (unless I have to for geometry reasons) since I started and not long after I discovered that hone wear is easily buffed out. Sometimes I start with 1000 grit sandpaper and then 2000 grit and then buff. Usually takes about 5 minutes.

Originally Posted by Steel

Funny you say that. I have been honing without tape (unless I have to for geometry reasons) since I started and not long after I discovered that hone wear is easily buffed out. Sometimes I start with 1000 grit sandpaper and then 2000 grit and then buff. Usually takes about 5 minutes.

Yes sir, my personal razors are honed without tape. Many wedge type blades can have some funky looking spine and edge wear. Hand honing or polishing is certainly preferable than using a machine to correct an issue.

Not sure I understand what is meant by re-grinding but that is the last thing I would do to beautiful vintage steel. Overheating the steel and losing the temper would be a shame. I’ve seen many ruined razors that are pretty to look at, but do not hold an edge to shave with...
MIke

Originally Posted by MODINE

Not sure I understand what is meant by re-grinding but that is the last thing I would do to beautiful vintage steel. Overheating the steel and losing the temper would be a shame. I’ve seen many ruined razors that are pretty to look at, but do not hold an edge to shave with...
MIke

AFAIK all razors are finish ground after HT with the same issues regarding not ruining the temper. The same skill set would be used in a regrind.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

Not sure that I follow you, but IMO a smiling edge is actually superior to a straight edge as every part of the edge is honed in its own time as the razor passes down the hone.

That's funny we were just talking about this yesterday haha

Originally Posted by Steel

Funny you say that. I have been honing without tape (unless I have to for geometry reasons) since I started and not long after I discovered that hone wear is easily buffed out. Sometimes I start with 1000 grit sandpaper and then 2000 grit and then buff. Usually takes about 5 minutes.

If you are buffing hone wear out then surely you are altering the geometry. So in a hundred years time someone will pick up your razor and start altering the geometry again because it doesn't suit their skills.

I'm not sure if anyone knows for certain how the true wedges were initially honed. Possibly there was some sort of guide that slipped on or a series of slack strops with varying grit pastes, low to high. I usually use up to four layers of tape and heavy pressure and coarse stones to set the initial bevel and it will take a bit of time

Originally Posted by rodb

I'm not sure if anyone knows for certain how the true wedges were initially honed. Possibly there was some sort of guide that slipped on or a series of slack strops with varying grit pastes, low to high. I usually use up to four layers of tape and heavy pressure and coarse stones to set the initial bevel and it will take a bit of time

There are no true wedge blades in any kind of production numbers. Every shaving blade was ground on a wheel therefore, it was hollow to an extent and honing was exactly the same then as it is now, you lay the spine and the edge on a hone. If the grind is accurate you end up with an even bevel. If the grind is uneven, you end up with a bevel of variable width. The amount of steel in between the spine and bevel is irrelevant in terms of the bevel width - so long as it is hollow ground.

I've had a few that were nearly ruler flat bevel to spine with 1/4" - 1/2" of bevel if I didn't use tape and the spine didn't look all that worn. These were pre 1840 razors

Originally Posted by UKRob

There are no true wedge blades in any kind of production numbers. .