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Thread: Atoma 400 lapping leaving scratch marks on stone

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    Senior Member Dafonz6987's Avatar
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    Default Atoma 400 lapping leaving scratch marks on stone

    So I have been lapping my shapton pro series stones with an atoma 400 and I've noticed when I get up to the higher grits it leaves tiny little lines when I push my razor across the stone... That's the only time I can see them is when the surface water is being pushed and what's left behind is in the thin scratches... They are pretty small and sometimes you need an angle to see them... So my worry is that it's effecting my honing... Just to mention too I only use the weight of he atoma and no pressure to lap my stones... Also I do this under running water... Should I purchase the atoma 1200 for my finer stones?

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    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
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    Before you spend more money on diamond hones, try simple whet dry sandpaper and see how that affects your results. You can get a pack of 800, 1000, and a 2000 grit M3 from Walmart and wrap the back of your Atoma and lap with it. I personally lap with used 325 DMT and then smooth with a Coticule. With my J-Nats, after the DMT, I smooth with nagura while making slurry.
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    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
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    Like mainaman I lap my stones with a worn 325. I go about 2/3 of the way with the 325, but I finish with a Atoma 1200. The 1200 leaves scratches on my stones. The stones work just fine though.
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    Senior Member Dafonz6987's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    Before you spend more money on diamond hones, try simple whet dry sandpaper and see how that affects your results. You can get a pack of 800, 1000, and a 2000 grit M3 from Walmart and wrap the back of your Atoma and lap with it. I personally lap with used 325 DMT and then smooth with a Coticule. With my J-Nats, after the DMT, I smooth with nagura while making slurry.
    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    Like mainaman I lap my stones with a worn 325. I go about 2/3 of the way with the 325, but I finish with a Atoma 1200. The 1200 leaves scratches on my stones. The stones work just fine though.
    I'll definitely use the sand paper that's how my neighbor does it... I dunno if it's really affecting the stones but it was just concerning me... I do have a nagura so maybe I'll try smoothing it out with that to start...

    So why do u switch from the 325 to the 1200? Just so u don't accidentally over lap it or because the 325 leaves deeper scratches?

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    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Make sure to break in your diamond plate, by sharpening a couple of kitchen knives on it with pressure, to remove any high diamonds, especially from the edges.

    Then lap a low grit stone on it. You need to lap with pressure, then lighten up on the pressure at the end to finish. A 1k or a Washita are good finishing stones for lapping.

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    Junior Member StoneSeeker's Avatar
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    The brand new DMT 325 i got had several high diamonds in it that would also leave deep scratches in my stone. it took a long time of lapping and sharpening things to knock them down. Now i can't use it on my smoothest finishers and leaves a silky finish to the stone.

    Rubbing the side of a screwdriver or hardened steel on the plate can speed up the break in process.
    I had to use magnification and even chip out a larger piece of diamond in my plate.

    these plates are tough and will last you a long time, make sure to always lap stones under running water. i have rubbed out the nickel substrate (that holds the diamonds in) by having inadequate or no running water while lapping. now there is a bare spot in the middle of a plate of mine

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    Junior Member StoneSeeker's Avatar
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    the 1200 can aid a little in smoothness but is not a necessity.
    I would break in your 400 before buying a new plate
    the swirls or scratches on your higher grit shapton shouldn't inhibit the stone too bad, you should be able to get a shave-able edge. though its obviously better w/o scrathes

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    Senior Member Frankenstein's Avatar
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    I use the 600 and am happy with its results, and follow with coti or BBW if necessary (usually not).

    I'm not sure if it was ever settled, but for a time there was a strong warning not to use the 1200 for lapping - something about the diamonds coming loose and being embedded in the lapped stone, IIRC.
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    Personally I think you'd be okay honing with the scratches but if it bothers you wet/dry may be the ticket.

    I'm not sure how it effects performance

    I hone with my stones lapped right off the DMT Lapping plate which is lower grit then the atoma 400.

    The scratches smooth over time. If not then I've got a Belgian blue whetstone that really smooths scratches out.

    Maybe that's an option for you. Good luck.

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    Flat is good, tiny scratches do not really matter when honing.

    I use a translucent small Arkansas( ¼x¾x3")pocket knife stone to clean my stones after using and lapping.I will not shed any grit as it is harder and finer than any stone I own other than itself. Specially good for Shapton glass which are soft and wear quickly!

    After the steel rub on your Atoma, try using a hard Arkansas hone to mellow it out. They will take a lot of rubbing on diamond!!

    YMMV
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