Results 1 to 10 of 10
Like Tree4Likes
  • 3 Post By mainaman
  • 1 Post By JimmyHAD

Thread: Atoma 400 lapping leaving scratch marks on stone

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Senior Member Dafonz6987's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    540
    Thanked: 79

    Default Atoma 400 lapping leaving scratch marks on stone

    So I have been lapping my shapton pro series stones with an atoma 400 and I've noticed when I get up to the higher grits it leaves tiny little lines when I push my razor across the stone... That's the only time I can see them is when the surface water is being pushed and what's left behind is in the thin scratches... They are pretty small and sometimes you need an angle to see them... So my worry is that it's effecting my honing... Just to mention too I only use the weight of he atoma and no pressure to lap my stones... Also I do this under running water... Should I purchase the atoma 1200 for my finer stones?

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Dafonz6987 For This Useful Post:

    StoneSeeker (09-07-2015)

  3. #2
    I used Nakayamas for my house mainaman's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Des Moines
    Posts
    8,664
    Thanked: 2591
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Before you spend more money on diamond hones, try simple whet dry sandpaper and see how that affects your results. You can get a pack of 800, 1000, and a 2000 grit M3 from Walmart and wrap the back of your Atoma and lap with it. I personally lap with used 325 DMT and then smooth with a Coticule. With my J-Nats, after the DMT, I smooth with nagura while making slurry.
    Stefan

  4. #3
    Senior Member blabbermouth JimmyHAD's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Posts
    32,564
    Thanked: 11044

    Default

    Like mainaman I lap my stones with a worn 325. I go about 2/3 of the way with the 325, but I finish with a Atoma 1200. The 1200 leaves scratches on my stones. The stones work just fine though.
    Geezer likes this.
    Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.

  5. #4
    Senior Member Dafonz6987's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Colorado
    Posts
    540
    Thanked: 79

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mainaman View Post
    Before you spend more money on diamond hones, try simple whet dry sandpaper and see how that affects your results. You can get a pack of 800, 1000, and a 2000 grit M3 from Walmart and wrap the back of your Atoma and lap with it. I personally lap with used 325 DMT and then smooth with a Coticule. With my J-Nats, after the DMT, I smooth with nagura while making slurry.
    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyHAD View Post
    Like mainaman I lap my stones with a worn 325. I go about 2/3 of the way with the 325, but I finish with a Atoma 1200. The 1200 leaves scratches on my stones. The stones work just fine though.
    I'll definitely use the sand paper that's how my neighbor does it... I dunno if it's really affecting the stones but it was just concerning me... I do have a nagura so maybe I'll try smoothing it out with that to start...

    So why do u switch from the 325 to the 1200? Just so u don't accidentally over lap it or because the 325 leaves deeper scratches?

  6. #5
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    Make sure to break in your diamond plate, by sharpening a couple of kitchen knives on it with pressure, to remove any high diamonds, especially from the edges.

    Then lap a low grit stone on it. You need to lap with pressure, then lighten up on the pressure at the end to finish. A 1k or a Washita are good finishing stones for lapping.

  7. The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:

    Geezer (09-10-2015)

  8. #6
    Junior Member StoneSeeker's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Springfield, MO
    Posts
    26
    Thanked: 4

    Default

    The brand new DMT 325 i got had several high diamonds in it that would also leave deep scratches in my stone. it took a long time of lapping and sharpening things to knock them down. Now i can't use it on my smoothest finishers and leaves a silky finish to the stone.

    Rubbing the side of a screwdriver or hardened steel on the plate can speed up the break in process.
    I had to use magnification and even chip out a larger piece of diamond in my plate.

    these plates are tough and will last you a long time, make sure to always lap stones under running water. i have rubbed out the nickel substrate (that holds the diamonds in) by having inadequate or no running water while lapping. now there is a bare spot in the middle of a plate of mine

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •