Thread: My first honing project

Originally Posted by Euclid440

So they are different techniques, for different problems.

The X stroke will by its nature will cause a bit of extra pressure on the toe and is a good stroke to ensure the toe gets honed properly.

Using two hands can be done with and without pressure, and is a technique that has to be calibrated to your hands and the amount of pressure you apply.

Generally a two handed grip, is used in the lower grits and single hand in higher grits when a very lite pressure is needed and wanted.

You will have to experiment to see results for yourself, this is where magnification and looking at the bevel will show you the results of your technique. Generally new honers use either too much or too little pressure, too much the most common.

Pressure is one of those things that is impossible to translate into words, except, more or less.

On the stone lapping, yes mark and erase the grid repeatedly, to ensure that the slurry is not washing off the pencil and that you are actually abrading the stone. Once the stone is flat, a subsequent grid will come off quickly. Spine the stone 180 degrees to ensure a level and flat stone face.

Use a soft lead pencil, flat thick lead lumber pencils work great.

Thanks for the info.

One other detail that might cause you concern is that the 4000 side of the Norton might have to be lapped to remove a lot more material than what is required just to get it flat.
If, while honing with it, you find it feels like there are odd feeling chunks or hard spots in the hone then you need to remove more material in order to get to the "good stuff".
It is not unusual to remove 1/16" or more from the surface of the 4000 side while the 8000 side usually will require less material removal.
Also while using the hones you will find that their surfaces will become gray and feel like they are glazed over with contamination.
Give them brief lapping to clean the surface and they will cut like new again.
Keep the hones wet with a squirt bottle of water.
When I read of a newbie using several hundred strokes on a hone and still not getting the desired result I think the contaminated hone is usually a factor.
Good luck and sweet shaves to ya!

Just finished my first attempt at honing the GD.

The bevel looks nice, mirror like, and the spine has a uniform erosion.

Maybe the bevel is thicker on one side more than the other. Could it be because the GD geometry?

As far as shave rediness...It is sharp in some places of the bevel more than in others. It will pass the hanging hair test at the center of the razor but not at the extremities.

I don´t think I can shave comfortably with it but it was my first attempt.

When I have some more free time I give it another go with the hones.

Not uncommon for a GD.

Does it sit flat on the hone, bevel and spine? And are the stabilizers hitting the stone?

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Not uncommon for a GD.

Does it sit flat on the hone, bevel and spine? And are the stabilizers hitting the stone?

Yes, actually it sits flat on the four corners. The stabilizers have been grinded with a dremel.

As I said, one of the sides of the bevel is ¨thicker¨ than the other if that makes any sense. I tried to even it by applying more force on the thinner side but no success. Could this be because of a ¨problem¨ with the spine on that side being too thick which would affect the angel or is purely my technique?

Thanks

Yea, uneven grind or ground, off center, (the edge is not in the center of the spine), or both, are common GD issues.

The only way to correct it is to re grind the spine, maybe not worth the effort if you get can get a good bevel.

The width or evenness, of the bevels, doesn’t matter as long as it takes an edge. It is just an aesthetic thing, if it bothers you, grind the thick spots of the spine until you get a bevels you want. A lot of work, and it will not improve the edge at all.

Thanks....I ll have another go and at least I get some practice at honing.

If you are going to try and straighten out the spine on the GD, you might want to look at the 140 grit diamond plate at Chefs Knives to Go for 30 bucks. It will cut some steel fast. Also is a good lapping plate to get a stone flat. They also have a 400/1k plate for about 35 that is a nice stone finishing plate.

If you are grinding a lot off the spine, tapeing the edge might be a good idea so you have an even straight edge to work with, once the spine is more even.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

If you are going to try and straighten out the spine on the GD, you might want to look at the 140 grit diamond plate at Chefs Knives to Go for 30 bucks. It will cut some steel fast. Also is a good lapping plate to get a stone flat. They also have a 400/1k plate for about 35 that is a nice stone finishing plate.

If you are grinding a lot off the spine, tapeing the edge might be a good idea so you have an even straight edge to work with, once the spine is more even.

I think the spine is straight. When I put it on a flat surface the four courners are stabel.

The impression that I have is that maybe one side of the spine is thicker than the other one therefore affecting the angel of the bevel. As mentioned earlier that does not affect the sharpness of the bevel.

Next week I have another go.

Thanks for the replay.