Thread: Can you lap a 10x3 stone with a 6x3 diamond plate.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

The lapping surface has to be larger than the stone. Get a piece of 325 wet and dry and a cookie sheet.

If you use a small plate the stone will never be flat.

Why would you want a stone that big?

+1 on why the need for a stone that size.

I don't think it would be impossible to lap though. I rarely have my lapping stone make full contact with the hone being lapped, so it should be possible. Grid lines will be your friend.

Once you get it flat on some wet & dry you could just refresh with a smaller plate, but an 8 inch would be easier. I’m not one that believes that dead flat is an absolute, especially for a finisher, smooth is more important, but you should get it close to begin with and no dips. A lapping plate, almost half the size of the stone could be a problem, and just ride over the high spots.

Those stones are a bit on the brittle side, you may want to mount it or make a case so you don’t break it.

A 8 in DMT is not that pricy, about $50.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Once you get it flat on some wet & dry you could just refresh with a smaller plate, but an 8 inch would be easier. I’m not one that believes that dead flat is an absolute, especially for a finisher, smooth is more important, but you should get it close to begin with and no dips. A lapping plate, almost half the size of the stone could be a problem, and just ride over the high spots.

Those stones are a bit on the brittle side, you may want to mount it or make a case so you don’t break it.

A 8 in DMT is not that pricy, about $50.

Luckily it's a inch thick. We'll be getting a full slab from Zulugrey.com if you want to know exactly what I'm getting.

Lapping a stone with a diamond plate that is considerably smaller is not advisable. You might get lucky and get it reasonably flat, but odds are that it won't stay that way for long after repeated lapping. Removing grid lines is NOT an accurate indicator of flatness. Get a reference straight edge and use feeler gages if you want to know whether your stone is actually flat.

DMT D10C - NEW PROFESSIONAL DMT D10C 10-Inch Dia-Sharp Continuous Diamond COARSE STONE NEW

This is what I have and it works great!

An affordable method would be a 12x12 marble tile from a store like home depot and wet/dry sandpaper. That Zulu would eat it to pieces though.

Have you considered the G20? I love mine much more than the ZG...

Originally Posted by shooter74743

DMT D10C - NEW PROFESSIONAL DMT D10C 10-Inch Dia-Sharp Continuous Diamond COARSE STONE NEW

This is what I have and it works great!

An affordable method would be a 12x12 marble tile from a store like home depot and wet/dry sandpaper. That Zulu would eat it to pieces though.

Have you considered the G20? I love mine much more than the ZG...

I've considered it and I'll probably get one at some point but I have a thing for natural stones.

Can you plaster a lath wall flat? How long is the coast of England? The answer to the later is the qualifier to the former. How flat is flat is a question that for most is subjective, and yes you can lap a larger stone with a smaller plate. The plasters of the 19th century would alternate directions with their knives on their coats to achieve this.

I would suggest going with the 3" side in one direction and the 6" side leading in an orthogonal one. Cross hatch. 1:1 alternating.

Originally Posted by aaron1234

I've considered it and I'll probably get one at some point but I have a thing for natural stones.

Ahh. I have a thing for natural stones too so I totally get this. It sounds like you got a monster stone on the way. Don't tell me you hand hone. Lol