Thread: Hone of the Day

Originally Posted by sharptonn

I thought my Norton 1k was much slower than this Naniwa until I tried slurrying the Norton.
For tough ones, I use the Norton with slurry a pile before going to the Naniwa 1K.

Everyone says the big green brick is the schizzle....Some say not? Never tried one...Seems messy?

Chosera 1K is a game changer for me. But I am heavy handed. Slurry and Norton scratches up the blade WAY past bevel. Chosera and slurry work done in a hurry with no scratches up past the bevel. Not the stones fault its mine. Less going back to resand the scratched blade.

Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003

Chosera 1K is a game changer for me. But I am heavy handed. Slurry and Norton scratches up the blade WAY past bevel. Chosera and slurry work done in a hurry with no scratches up past the bevel. Not the stones fault its mine. Less going back to resand the scratched blade.

Interesting how you mentioned 'heavy-handed'. As I describe my usual progression to others, they are surprised how many reps I perform. Seldom do I push hard on the 1k unless there is a problem spot. I usually just let it do it's job. I have been gifted an Okudu Tomo Nagura which slurries it'self onto the Norton easily and makes for a fast cutter without excessive scratching of the bevel. I found that raising the slurry from the Norton makes for a rough hone. I still go to the Naniwa 1k after. Very light from there onward, weight of the blade only. YMMV

Originally Posted by sharptonn

Interesting how you mentioned 'heavy-handed'. As I describe my usual progression to others, they are surprised how many reps I perform. Seldom do I push hard on the 1k unless there is a problem spot. I usually just let it do it's job. I have been gifted an Okudu Tomo Nagura which slurries it'self onto the Norton easily and makes for a fast cutter without excessive scratching of the bevel. I found that raising the slurry from the Norton makes for a rough hone. I still go to the Naniwa 1k after. Very light from there onward, weight of the blade only. YMMV

No Your way is correct and the valuable chance to have honed a many. I am learning but 20years behind you my friend. I once thought 50 strokes per grit was Gospel. 20 circles to sharp was Holy Spirit. In the Church of Super Sharp.
Plus Glenn once said "torque the edge while keeping the spine flat" I was Saved. WRONG.
I may torque it a little too hard, redo 10 blades this winter only to rehone. Hands on is huge. You cant teach pressure and finesse, were the edge is going.Just because you found SRP doesnt make anyone an expert by any stretch. I comment alot less and wait for the Goodguys to speak on things now.
Oh and I still break things, Thank goodness for beater blades and Antique Shops.

Spray and go!.
Mike

[IMG][/IMG]

a Brian Brown Custom done on the Nakayama with a full Nagura progression...

This was from Thanksgiving morning

I've been trying out all the stones in my arsenal on my snail forge custom razor from bruno. When I etched the blade to reveal the differential heat treatment, I did not protect the edge. As a result, microchipping plagued me for a long time. After getting that issue fixed, I started with the gokumyo 20k. Shaves were good, very smooth, nothing to complain about at all. Next up was the escher. Much smoother shave, but didn't have that crisp sharpness like it had on the 20k. Then the nakayama. I must have done something horribly wrong because that shave sucked! I think I tapped the side of the hone or something, because I just honed it on the coticule and there is a very small ding on the edge, and I know it wasn't from this honing session and remember feeling a particle scratch when on the nakayama. I think I'm going to shave with it anyway.

Ok so my main question is what are your preferred methods for finishing on the jnat? I've tried water only after a koma and tomo slurry, and haven't been impressed by that. Thanks for any input, and enjoy the pics

Originally Posted by prodigy

Ok so my main question is what are your preferred methods for finishing on the jnat? I've tried water only after a koma and tomo slurry, and haven't been impressed by that.

If you look at just the last 2 posts above you will notice that the J=nats still have slurry on them

There are no rules set in stone (pun intended) but most people tend to want the J-nat slurry to break down and finish on that, some of us go so far as to leave that slurry intact on the surface of the hone so we start with slurry that is already partially broken down

Try it out a few ways on a few razors and see what works out