Thread: To splurge or not...

Originally Posted by RazorCut

Well I ordered'em got a 1k naniwa Pro Series and 5k, 8k & 12k naniwa Sharpening Series + dressing stone. So now I will two finishers to dabble with right out the gate. Now I just need a good little inexpensive str8 to start experimenting with while my current is still in order. Should I try a gold dollar, a classified vint or take a shot at a flea mkt deal? Leaning away from the later until I have more exp.... What do you recommend for someone in my position starting out?

You now have a great set, from bevel setting to finish.
If you know what to look for, (spine wear, blade condition) you can get some great deals at antique stores and flea markets on the cheap.
Usually $20. Or less

Did I miss it??
Do you have a lapping plate??
It is important in keeping your hones flat, as well as removing shwarf(metal filing stuck in hone)
Good choices in hones, maintenance will keep them in fighting condition.

Originally Posted by ultrasoundguy2003

Did I miss it??
Do you have a lapping plate??
It is important in keeping your hones flat, as well as removing shwarf(metal filing stuck in hone)
Good choices in hones, maintenance will keep them in fighting condition.

Yea that was one of the items I received as a Christmas present, specifically the 'norton flattening stone'.

Oh and good tip on whipped dog, i forgot he has some bargins. And then once I've gotten that ubder wraps I'll keep an eye out at flea mkts for projects

Originally Posted by RazorCut

Yea that was one of the items I received as a Christmas present, specifically the 'norton flattening stone'.

That will get them flat, but you're going to want some wet or dry sand paper to smooth out the scratches that flattening stone will leave in them. I have one, feel free to guess how I learned that lol.

Originally Posted by Marshal

That will get them flat, but you're going to want some wet or dry sand paper to smooth out the scratches that flattening stone will leave in them. I have one, feel free to guess how I learned that lol.

Ahh good to know. I have many grits of paper and emry in my shop along with some 1/4in plate glass if need be. What grit do you recommend after the flatner which is 220 if I recall correctly.

Originally Posted by RazorCut

Ahh good to know. I have many grits of paper and emry in my shop along with some 1/4in plate glass if need be. What grit do you recommend after the flatner which is 220 if I recall correctly.

After the Norton I use 320. How far I take it from there depends entirely on the grit of the hone, and whether it's natural or Synthetic. For my 1k, I stop at 600. The 4k, and 8k Synthetics I stop at 2000 grit. 320 - 600-1k-2k progression. You may be able to stop sooner than that, but I figure finer grit = finer surface on the hone = finer (if slower to achieve) finish on the razor.

My natural (Guanxi hone aka C12K aka People's Hone of Indeterminate Grit [PHIG]) I ran over my 4k, then 8k Norton hones to put a finish smoother than Ceramic. May be overkill, but I like the end results. I'll probably treat my Welsh Slates the same when they arrive.

Or try SIC powder 220, 400 & 600. It's cheap goes a long way and does a great job. You can get it in higher grits if desired.

Originally Posted by Diehardmason

Or try SIC powder 220, 400 & 600. It's cheap goes a long way and does a great job. You can get it in higher grits if desired.

That too. I keep forgetting about it because I haven't tried it and only recently realized they sell just the loose SIC powder.

There some basic problems with the Norton Flattening Hone.

A) It does not start out very flat, so before you use it to flatten anything you have to flatten it.

B) After you use it to flatten a hone that is not flat, it will have worn unevenly, so it will no longer be flat. Also, of course, that means the hone you tried to flatten with it will not be completely flat either.

C). After using it to somewhat flatten a hone, you will have to re-flatten the flattener.