Thread: Setting bevel

Originally Posted by Steel

I am assuming you are going for a double bevel then, and not to protect the spine?

Not to hijack the thread, but when would one want to have a double bevel? Just trying to learn more...

Originally Posted by pcm

Not to hijack the thread, but when would one want to have a double bevel? Just trying to learn more...

Here....

Originally Posted by Euclid440

There are any number of reasons for intentionally making a double bevel, a stronger edge, where chipping is occurring or using a slow hard stone like an Ark where you do not want to produce a full bevel, It can then be repeatedly touched up with a few strokes, until the bevel becomes so large it is almost a full bevel at a shallower angle, or to make a stronger edge.

Exactly. Some people call it a micro bevel and it is done with knives and quite a few here will use it with razors too although they will start with a layer of tape for the bevel set and honing but when they are going to their finishing stone they add one more layer to get the micro bevel. I have never used this method but there are some that swear by this.

Originally Posted by Steel

Here....


Exactly. Some people call it a micro bevel and it is done with knives and quite a few here will use it with razors too although they will start with a layer of tape for the bevel set and honing but when they are going to their finishing stone they add one more layer to get the micro bevel. I have never used this method but there are some that swear by this.

As soon as double bevel was mentioned I thought of sushi knives



Or you can micro-bevel with a compressible strop (hanging denim with abrasive compound) (from scienceofsharp):

Originally Posted by Fruiteater

As soon as double bevel was mentioned I thought of sushi knives

OK, I'll bite. Why does "double bevel" make you think of single bevel knives ?

Originally Posted by onimaru55

OK, I'll bite. Why does "double bevel" make you think of single bevel knives ?

I think it was the first time I was looking into getting a Yanagiba, something I read explained the bevelled side as having a double bevel, but it's really a primary and secondary bevel that blend to make one big curved bevel:
(from: Bevel angel for Takobiki or yanagiba? 300 ish mm)

For those scratching their heads over another puzzling Japanese word - Hamaguriba is the term for the continuous slight curve of the primary bevel.
It curves all the way to the edge, with no actual secondaries. This is often called a Moran grind, or the old Japanese term - Appleseed grind.

It is formed by making small flats as you sharpen/shape the bevel on the stones. Each flat is "blended" into the next one until the bevel looks like a smooth surface. When it meets the edge, it ends as a zero-grind. This technique was very important in shaping Japanese swords and knives made from the traditional billets with a hard edge and soft body. The steel sharpens very differently depending on the carbon content, and blending them together improved both ascetics and performance.

I find hamaguriba not a necessity in modern Japanese kitchen blades when using modern grinders and steels. The final edge seems to take care of itself when doing the final sharpening steps ( shiage-togi) by lifting the spine as you stroke the last few times on the edge. Some use a mouse pad backing on super-fine papers to get this effect.
Using a Rotary platen also creates a slight curvature of the bevel, quite similar to hamaguriba.

Originally Posted by Fruiteater

I think it was the first time I was looking into getting a Yanagiba, something I read explained the bevelled side as having a double bevel, but it's really a primary and secondary bevel that blend to make one big curved bevel:

I see. You were thinking about how to hone it as opposed to the grind. I didn't make that connection.