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Thread: Can't set the bevel.

  1. #1
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    Default Can't set the bevel.

    Hey fellas, this is my first post here on SRP. I've been lurking a while... A few things...

    I have shaved with 6 straights before, all pro honed. Anyway, I picked up an e-bay junker and I went for it trying to get it shave ready. I worked a dmt 1200 then threw on the coticule. I've literally been playing with the coticule for about 1.5 years and NEVER got a hht off my own hair, only something thicker like badger hair—which doesn't, for me, translate into a good shave.

    Here's the thing tho... the thumb pad test wasn't very good tonight. IN fact, it feels as dull as dishwater. I'm all ready showing massive spine wear and despite all the swarf, I got nada. Tomato test is perfect, thumb nail test is good, thumb pad test feels off, way off.

    I'm wondering what kind of pressure I need for bevel setting (I also have a King 1k). I'm wondering if it's possible I'm simply just not there yet, and this razor might take an hour or something.

    On Another note—I'm putting my coticule away for a long time and getting a Norton 4/8. My cotis, I'm afraid I'll never get the hang of. Smooth shaves from some junkers I tinkered with before, but some the razor never cut my mustache area and it tugged like an ex-girlfriend when I went against the grain. Smooth, because the razor won't cut!

  2. #2
    Senior Member bongo's Avatar
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    Can you put up a few pics ?....
    I'm wondering whether the DMT or the King are the best option for setting bevels

    A synthetic 1K like the Naniwa or Chosera might be a better option.

    You could include your location in your personal info and that way find a group or mentor
    in your area.

    There will be some honemeisters along soon who have far more experience than me and
    they'll help you in the right direction

    By the way, welcome to SRP !!
    Last edited by bongo; 01-09-2016 at 01:14 AM.
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    http://straightrazorplace.com/workshop/18504-welcome-workshop-how-do-i-where-do-i-what-do-i-answers-here.html

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    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
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    Where are you located? If you add your location to your member info, or declare it here, then someone nearby may make themselves available for one on one help, which is the best kind.

    For a beginner to learn how to set a bevel, you are WAY better off using tape and changing it frequently, as in well before it wears through. If you are "showing massive spine wear," then you are screwing up your razor. Doing it right is much more important than doing a lot of wrong.

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    Hey guys, thanks for the quick response!

    I'm in North Jersey. I'll definitely throw some tape on it. I'll get some pics up soon.

    I want to start over, equipment wise. I really think cotis are inappropriate for me right now. I'm reading through the JANorton thread and wondering if Nortons are easier than cotis. Seems that way.

    1. I'm still confused about razor pressure. When I hear "heavy pressure" to set the bevel I WHALE on that thang. No bueno.

    2. I'll pick up a Norton 4/8 if you guys recommend that. Is the Norton 1k good? I read the "dedicated bevel setter" thread—do people still like that one? The Naniwa Super Stone?

    3. Cotis are impossible for me. I've shaved with "attempted" edges from cotis—I get the smooth just fine. But the problem areas remain a problem. I actually get irritation from coti edges.

    4. Do people here still use lapping film?

  5. #5
    Senior Member rodb's Avatar
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    Norton's are way easier to learn especially the 4k/8k you get very repeatable results

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    Senior Member blabbermouth Steel's Avatar
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    Wow. You got a lot going on. Just a suggestion- maybe you would do better taking your pro honed razors and touch them up first before you jump into a full bevel set. I mean, natural stones are tough enough and then throw in what seems like a one stone hone on a coti. That there is a pretty tough challenge. Just a thought. Some like the punishment of doing things the hard way. I know I do
    Last edited by Steel; 01-09-2016 at 01:35 AM.
    What a curse be a dull razor; what a prideful comfort a sharp one

  7. #7
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Heavy presure for a straight is pretty much only if the bevel is wrecked and you need to seriously wear that puppy down. Medium pressure to get the bevel together (for me and my meat hands, that's resting the weight of my hand or less on it, no down force) and light pressure (literally just the weight of the blade on the hone) to get the deep 1k gouges out.

    Use the King. Usually* a diamond hone leaves you with a harsh edge to clean up. Plenty of folks here use the King for bevel setting and get good edges. I would wager same level as the Norton, if you don't want to spring for a Chosera yet just use what you have. When you get the Norton 4k/8k - continue using light pressure. Don't bear down, lighter is better.
    jfk742 likes this.

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    Senior Member blabbermouth RezDog's Avatar
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    So when you say eBay junker my mind goes to a razor with no bevel set. So really what we are talking about is not regular honing but restoration work. It is a cat of a different color. Next off when you use too much pressure on a razor it flexes and you hone above where the bevel is suppose to be and it will be a cold day and a lot of wear to get those bevels to meet. Speaking of meets you will learn more in a one day meet than you will in a month of honing alone and watching videos. A DMT is not really for honing razors either. It is kind of like using dynamite for fishing, yes you can get fish but it is unlikely to be the quality or specific kind you wanted. So pressure is your enemy until you understand when and how much. I kind of think that Steel is on the right track with starting with refreshing being a much easier route. Also the 1K is a much better starting point. The bevel is the foundation of your edge and unless you get it just so your final product will be lacking.
    JOB15 and Steel like this.
    It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!

  9. #9
    Previously lost, now "Pasturized" kaptain_zero's Avatar
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    Your best bet is to hang out with someone who has some skills..... waay better than going it alone. I had to go it alone as I was the only one in my area that I knew of. It took me a long time and I really wore down that first Antique shop sub $20 razor. Today, it's still my favourite razor as it taught me almost everything I know about honing, but it still had to endure a lot of abuse.

    1. If you are confused, you need to hang out with someone who can show you, or lighten up... waling on a razor will get you nothing but heavy spine wear. The blade is very thin and flexible, unless we're talking a near wedge razor. Putting too much pressure just causes the blade to flex, raising the actual edge off the hone and you can hone for hours never touching the edge... Adding *slight* torque to the razor *can*, when done correctly, speed up the honing process, but it's a very light torquing.... so light, gents like Gssixgun hesitate to even mention it, as too much is far worse that not enough. Tape that spine to prevent more wear and little more than the weight of the razor is all that is needed.

    2. A Norton 4/8K combo is a fine hone... It is NOT the solution to your current problem, but it IS a fine hone and should go well between your 1K King and your Coticule hones. You do NOT need a 1K Norton, your 1K King is fine.... not the fastest, but in your case, fast is not a good thing.... Putting a brand new driver with little training in the seat of a formula one race car is NOT a recipe for success. The Naniwa Professional 1K is probably one of the best bevel setters out there, but if you cannot do it with a King 1K, you can't do it with the Naniwa either. The finest tools mean nothing if you have not developed the skill to use it well. Once you have the skill, you will have the experience to select the *right* hone for YOU, and that hone may or may not be what someone else likes.

    3. The Coticules are excellent hones in skilled hands, your hands are not yet there, but they will be soon. The coti will serve you well down the road, but as you have found out, just buying an expensive stone does not make you an expert honemeister.

    4. Honing films work, I've used them in the past, and again, they are not your solution, as they do not make you an experienced honer. Only time and practice can do that. I will say, I started with films as I simply could not afford hones, but I quickly learned that by the time you can get a decent edge out of films, you've spent so much time, not to mention money on glass plates and worn razors, you might as well have bought hones and a DMT 325 to flatten them.

    Even the big guns in honing can happily use a 1K King, a 4/8 Norton and a Coticule to create fine edges. It's not what you use, it's how you use it.

    Gssixguns motto reads as such:

    "No amount of money spent on a Stone can ever replace the value of the time it takes learning to use it properly"
    Very Respectfully - Glen

    If nobody is close enough to give you a hand, at least watch Gssixguns videos on youtube. They are an excellent resource when learning to hone.

    https://www.youtube.com/user/gssixgun/videos

    Regards

    Christian aka

    Kaptain "We've all been where you are right now, and it just takes some time and practice" Zero
    "Aw nuts, now I can't remember what I forgot!" --- Kaptain "Champion of lost causes" Zero

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    Willisf (01-09-2016)

  11. #10
    Senior Member BeJay's Avatar
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    You say TNT is good but TPT is way off. This doesn't make sense to me. If the TNT is good, your bevel is set. If the bevel is set, TPT will be good. No offence, but if this is your first time setting a bevel, you probably don't really understand what a good TNT or TPT feels like yet. Will it shave arm or leg hair? A loupe may also be helpful for learning.
    Marshal likes this.

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