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Thread: When to stop on 1k stone
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01-16-2016, 06:22 PM #1
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Thanked: 4When to stop on 1k stone
Are there any reliable ways to tell when you have used your bevel-setting hone enough to go to the next finer stone?
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01-16-2016, 06:47 PM #2
Often it's a matter of feel, but I have noticed that when the water is very thinned down, almost dry, but runs up over the blade as i move it over the stone, that's a pretty good sign, assuming you've got the blade in good contact with the stone. For it to hug the stone so closely that the water has to run up and over, that bevel needs to have become pretty fine. This doesn't apply to the time when there is a good bit of water on the stone, but toward the time you might spray a bit more on. I also note if there are sections of the blade where the water doesn't flow up and over, often near the heel.
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01-16-2016, 06:52 PM #3
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Thanked: 351When you can shave with your razor off the 1K hone, it's ready to start moving up the grit progression.
Have a look at this thread: beginners-1k-shave
Regards
Christian"Aw nuts, now I can't remember what I forgot!" --- Kaptain "Champion of lost causes" Zero
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The Following User Says Thank You to kaptain_zero For This Useful Post:
Phrank (01-16-2016)
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01-16-2016, 07:04 PM #4
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Thanked: 4That makes sense, LawsonStone. - I did look at the other thread but they are stropping quite a few times before shaving. I don't plan on stropping between hones.
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01-16-2016, 07:15 PM #5
The test I use is the TPT; if the blade feels sticky the next test is see if will cut arm hair. If it cuts arm hair the entire length of the blade its time to move on to the next hone.
"If You Knew Half of What I Forgot You Would Be An Idiot" - by DoughBoy68
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01-16-2016, 07:30 PM #6
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Thanked: 351The 1K shave was an exercise to demonstrate how far one needs to go on the 1K before bothering to move on to the next grit in your progression. If the blade does not have a fully formed edge, there is no point in going to a finer grit hone, once the bevels meet correctly along the entire edge, it's time. Stropping was only done in that exercise to smooth the edge enough for the shave, not required in honing normally, as you just move up the grits until you are finished and then strop before shaving.
Thumb pad test, arm hair shave test, visual check by sighting down the edge, loupes etc. are all valid ways to test, for the honer who has learned to use these tests in his/her progression. It is something an individual will have to develop as they learn honing. What works for one person may not work as well for the next.
Example, I could tell you that I use my moustache for testing edges.... It works for me, but if you don't have *my* moustache, it will likely not be a useful test for you. The 1K shave tests proves to the honer that indeed, they have properly set the bevel with the 1K hone and that it is sharp enough to move on to the next hone in the progression. The remaining hones are used to remove/reduce the scratches made by the initial coarse bevel set hone and that part goes rather quickly.
Regards
Christian"Aw nuts, now I can't remember what I forgot!" --- Kaptain "Champion of lost causes" Zero
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01-16-2016, 07:33 PM #7
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Thanked: 433For me, if it can cut arm hair very easily at skin level across the whole length of the blade
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01-16-2016, 07:48 PM #8
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Thanked: 4Thanks for the good answers. How do you know on the next two stones (e.g. 4k & 8k) since you're already passing these tests at 1k? If there is no specific answer, how many passes should be made on the middle stones?
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01-16-2016, 07:57 PM #9
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Thanked: 433For me (and your tests may vary) I test 4k at skin level and it should feel more crisp when it cuts arm hair, for 8k it should start to tree top arm hairs and just touching arm hair at skin level it will fall over. I also check often with magnification, 8k will leave an almost mirror finish
For passes, I do sets of 20 and recheck
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01-16-2016, 08:13 PM #10
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Thanked: 4828If you look around the forum there have been a lot of threads on this, because it is the most important part of honing. I had a quick look but could not find the pictures I am looking for. There are a few threads with great pictures through a loupe as to what a set bevel looks like. There is also a pretty good video on youtube by toxic? that explains spotting a poorly set bevel using a bright light. Due to the difference in peoples hair it is one of those test that also needs to be calibrate to your hair. It is a quick and easy test once you know what you are looking for. If you go to a meet you can see what others are showing you in a loupe and then test it on your arm hair. At home by yourself it is a lot of trial and error but getting a loupe and beginning to look at the tip of the apex is about the only way I was able to understand. Essentially looking down on the tip of the apex, it should have no sections of sparkle reflecting back. I will add links into this if I can find what I am looking for before someone else posts it.
It's not what you know, it's who you take fishing!