Thread: Just 1 hone for everything?

Hmmm, so you consider your 4K/8K pretty indispensible Lynn.

I think maybe since I already own one, it makes sense to keep it in the available arsenal rather than sell it off.

I have to say I prefer using the yellow coticle though, for some reason it just feels 'nicer' and 'smoother' when I'm using it.

Cheers.

I say naturals. This is going to produce an edge that you will scrape skin cells off your face with, so would you rather know that its made using something natural???

Having said that weight of evidence on the forums is that the nortons are the best, but I would not know - I am sticking with god-made hones.

Si

Originally Posted by Sunsi

I say naturals. This is going to produce an edge that you will scrape skin cells off your face with, so would you rather know that its made using something natural???

Si

I really am not trying to be rude but I don't see any logic in this statement. If anything, it can be argued that the specifications of man-made stones like the Norton are much more precise than stones made by nature; furthermore, they can produce a more consistent edge from stone to stone. I use both natural stones and man-made stones and both can produce an edge worthy of "wiping the hair off my face". If you want to stay with natural stones then that is fine; however, I think that you are deceiving yourself if you think that a stone will automatically produce a better edge because it was made by nature as opposed to man.

Originally Posted by Steelforge

Hmmm, so you consider your 4K/8K pretty indispensible Lynn.

I think maybe since I already own one, it makes sense to keep it in the available arsenal rather than sell it off.

I have to say I prefer using the yellow coticle though, for some reason it just feels 'nicer' and 'smoother' when I'm using it.

Cheers.

I would be happy with just my Norton 4K/8K and a small coticule. If I had to choose just one it would be the Norton, but luckily I am not in a position to have to make such a choice.

I'm going to simplify a little here:

There are basically 2 types of straight razor hones. Fast cutting hones which are generally the synthetic man made types (Nortons, carborundums, Swatys), and slow cutting hones which are generally the natural stones (Belgians, Eschers). The fast hones are typically coarser and the slow hones finer.

Slow hones are best for beginners since they are more forgiving and it is harder to over-hone and ruin the edge, although it will take longer to hone the razor. The fast hone requires more expertise since the edge is greatly affected in a shorter period of time and if your technique is lacking, you may end up doing more harm than good.

I don't think you have to have both types to hone a razor, but there are times when one or the other may come in handy. Or it could just be personal preference.

Recently I have used just the "Little Devil" barber hone with great success. It would be considered a fast hone and I've found it can put an edge on a dull razor in under 20 strokes and can touch up a razor with just 2-4 strokes. I've found it works best with water or lather, but can be used dry. In either case, followed by a good stropping it will create a HHT hair spliting, smooth shaving edge. Lately I've experienced this on both a Puma and a Thiers "Eagle Brand" straight razor.

So far the "Little Devil" is one of my favorites, and is one I'd definately choose if I could have only one hone.

Scott

Originally Posted by JoshEarl

Howard uses a DMT 1200-grit, then a Belgian blue and yellow. I'm finding this is a really effective and quick way to get eBay razors up and running--lots better than my old sandpaper/Norton setup.

Hey Josh, what are you finding to be the advantages of using a DMT instead of sandpaper/1K Norton?

And do you use the DMT 1200 for lapping as well? (I thought Howard used the 300 or 600 DMT for lapping...)

Originally Posted by heavydutysg135

I really am not trying to be rude but I don't see any logic in this statement. If anything, it can be argued that the specifications of man-made stones like the Norton are much more precise than stones made by nature; furthermore, they can produce a more consistent edge from stone to stone. I use both natural stones and man-made stones and both can produce an edge worthy of "wiping the hair off my face". If you want to stay with natural stones then that is fine; however, I think that you are deceiving yourself if you think that a stone will automatically produce a better edge because it was made by nature as opposed to man.

I think you got the wrong end of the stick - I am not saying that the edge produced is any better or worse, just that the more natural way of achieving it gives a better feeling inside - its a mind thing. I realise I am possibly in the minority here with that train of thought, but I prefer to use natural goods and processes wherever I can in my life, and this is one example of that.

If you dont mean to be rude though, why immediately back it up with a rude statement? If you misunderstood the statement then fair enough, but questioning the logic without seeking further clarification could be considered a little rude. No offence has been taken, but it certainly could have been.

Si

Originally Posted by dylandog

Hey Josh, what are you finding to be the advantages of using a DMT instead of sandpaper/1K Norton?

And do you use the DMT 1200 for lapping as well? (I thought Howard used the 300 or 600 DMT for lapping...)

I haven't tried my DMTs for lapping yet, but I plan to next time I have a stone that needs to be lapped.

The DMT works better than sandpaper, in my experience, because it doesn't leave a rounded bevel. Sandpaper has give to it, so it tends to curve slightly as the razor's bevel moves across it. I was using the sandpaper to take out chips, then spending a long time on the Norton 1K (which is nice but cuts slowly) to flatten the bevel back out. When the bevel is rounded, the edge doesn't hit the stone during the stroke, only the upper part of the bevel.

The DMT cuts as quickly as sandpaper, doesn't wear out, and leaves a nice, flat bevel.

Other guys have had great luck with sandpaper, though, and I could never figure out what my problem was. Also, Randy Tuttle says the DMT is too harsh on the edge and could cause microchipping at the finer grits. I haven't seen it yet, but Randy knows his stuff, so I'm keeping a close eye on things.

Josh

Many men in the past used just one hone (most likely - not as nice as a Coticule or an Escher) and it worked for them.

It's a different story if you ask how well it worked - was the edge feeling smooth, etc. I am sure it wasn't

Assuming you are only doing maintenance - you can get by with just a cheap barber hone, a Coticule, or a Green / Yellow Escher - whatever you want to spend. Even on some NOS razors (vs ebay specials) these might require extra dedication and effort to get you to a shave-ready state. If you have the patience - good for you.

Also - NOS can have warps; a 3x8 would not work well on these and may lead to lots of frustration. Heck, high-end TIs come with warps brand new right now, and I also heard Joel complain of a Dovo, iirc - the ivory scales $400 model. I'd rather have a 1.5" or a 1" if I can - it will still work for non-warped blades.

Cheers
Ivo

ps: after all this - I *almost* sold my 3x8 Norton combo and this would have been VERY STUPID (as I now know - thanks Ilija!) I might still sell it one day but only when I am positive I won't be buying anything else... and then, if I chip a razor I'll be sorry for sure

I'd second the recommendation for a narrower hone, especially if it was my only hone. All a wide hone does for you in my opinion is save you a few strokes here and there, plus give you the ability to hone straight across if the razor has a very straight edge.

Narrow is more versatile.

Josh