Thread: Progression honing

Hello all,
As I've mentioned elsewhere on this forum, I recently honed an old vintage straight razor. The honing/polishing I did using the pyramid method. I'm pleased that all the hard work paid off, but now that I have one under the belt, I want to advance myself by learning about progression honing.
I understand it's removing the scratches from the previous grit before moving up, but how do you know exactly when you are ready to move up?

That has been discussed here a lot. When it was pretty early on in my honing I thought I knew the answers, then I honed more and realized that all those things were not always true. Leaving me with the non specific answer of it depends. I will give you a basic idea of what I do and then you can try to observe some of the same things. You need a loupe. So as I start on a hone the blade generally feels quite coarse as I start on that hone, then after I have honed for a while the edge starts to feels a little more slick on the hone, that tells me I am getting close, I check with my loupe at this point and seethe changes in the stria. Then when they are all even I move up. Again the blade typically feels coarse on the hone, and then starts to feel slick, as the grits go higher the edge may go from coarse to slick to sticky. When it gets to sticky on a high grit hone I am pretty much done, most of the time. All of this is a mass generalization, except what you see with the loupe. The loupe is the only tool in my quiver that is always consistent. At bevel set the apex comes together, Ii can always see that. That is also the only time I look at the edge or apex straight on. As I move up from bevel set I still look at the edge but from the side and most of what I am looking at and for is along the bevel. As you progress to the higher grits the edge should get progressively straighter and more of a crisp line. If you get a perfect line just back from the edge it is a sign of having either created a double bevel or having gotten a foil edge from having gone to far. It is all about practice and observation. If you can get to a meet, that is the very best place to learn. You can pass a blade back and forth with an experienced person and see and talk about exactly what is going on.

First set the bevel, make them flat, at a consistent bevel angle, from the back of the bevel to the edge and meeting at the edge completely, from heel to toe. This is one of the most difficult things for a new honer to do, and the cause of 98 percent of most honing issues listed in the honing forum.

Then just remove the 1k stria, with the 4k and the 4k with an 8k and 8k with12K. Once the previous stria is removed AND you have not buggered the edge, you move up.

As said, this is an over simplification, but if you do that, you will have a shave ready edge, then strop the razor without damaging the edge.

Piece of cake.

Here are 3 posts with excellent micrographs of edges and bevels of a new honer honing 3 razors step by step from beginning to finish. You should note the length of time the honer took to hone each razor. The time it takes to learn to hone can greatly be reduced, by getting one on one instruction from a local mentor.

Second-try-honing-seeking-opinions


Is this microchipping...?


Should I try to tackle this (very difficult, IMHO) challenge

Originally Posted by Charliebrian24

...

I understand it's removing the scratches from the previous grit before moving up, but how do you know exactly when you are ready to move up?

Here's a Copy&Paste from an old post (link to the dated, full version):

//The Progressive Procedure
1. Set the edge on a flat hone. Establish the bevels using 1k to 4k grit, or use your grit of choice. Use the marker and TNT until the edge passes both. Do 3 or more additional very light laps to refine the primary edge bevels.

Now is also the time to check to make sure that all of your blade is reaching the hone. Use a permanent marker to paint the edge of the razor before honing. After 5-10 laps you will be able to see any warping or high spots, and adjust your technique accordingly. You can reapply the ink as often as needed throughout the honing process.

Except for testing; there is no point in polishing a razor's edge with finer hones until after the edge's bevels are set (i.e. you can pass the marker and TNT simultaneously).

Once you set the edge (primary bevels) it will never be necessary to do it again unless you damage the edge (chip it, roll it badly, etc...).

2. Polish on the next finer hone or paste of choice. Begin each finer honing step/grit by using the TPT and/or hair tests to establish your starting level of sharpness. Test using the TPT and/or hair tests every 3 to 20 laps, depending on the hone media used. Repeat the "laps and test" cycle until satisfied with the results (i.e. you notice a nice change).

If you try to get a "100% finish" from each hone, you will likely get "100% plus". A finish over 100% is also called a wire edge. Train yourself to settle for something under 100% and wire edges will be avoided.

3. Repeat step 2 or strop and shave.

That's all there is to it. The following text elaborates on the above.


//Required
1. A knowledge of how to do the HHT(and "mow hair" variation), TNT, marker test, and TPT.

TNT: Use a damp thumbnail. A dull edge will pull smoothly and freely over the nail. A sharp edge with well set bevels will dig in and/or drag across the nail with a smooth, even sensation. Practice with a DE blade (e.g. by using electrical tape to tape the DE to your razor's blade). This test is most useful while setting the primary edge/bevels. Try not to use the TNT on any edge over 4k.
TPT: Use the slightly dampened ball of the thumb or finger. Move it lightly along the edge (not across). If sharp, the edge will have a "drawing" or "sticking" feeling. Practice with a DE blade. This test, with a little practice, can be useful at all stages of honing and stropping.
HHT: Hold the razor still and bring a hair to the edge. The hair may fall or pop from the edge depending on sharpness and your hair's characteristics. The "mow hair" variation is done by moving the razor above your skin through some hair. Some razors will shave well even without passing the HHT tests. Especially so if the hair used is very fine/thin. You can also use a DE blade here to see/test how your own hair responds to a sharp edge.
Marker test: Use a marker to color the edge on both sides. After 5 to 10 laps, examine the edge to see where the razor is contacting the hone. This test is useful to set bevels, identify warped razors, and while learning to hone smiling/frowning razors. Also use it when first learning to hone to help develop a nice, even sharpening stroke.

Thanks fellas. And yes, I can see it certainly is a tough question and its best understood with experience and I think I have a long road ahead, but your instructions where very helpful. Thanks again. Looking forward to slowly mastering it over time! Will give updates.

One other thing that has not been mentioned is watching the water pushed by the blade. You always should watch the water in front of the blade to make sure that you are making contact with the hone, but when the blade is making better contact, at the point when you are about ready to move to the next hone, the water will climb from the hone up onto the blade during the honing stroke.

All this is great advice. It can be overwhelming at first but take key points away from each post and keep it simple. I worked away from the pyramid progression gradually. That method is the best for beginners and if you understand why it works the move away will be easier. Your next razor may have you pulling your hair out trying to figure out what is wrong even using the pyramid. And your always have the option of going back to it. The only thing I could really add to what these wise men have said is that if it's not working walk away. Return to it after the frustration goes away.