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Thread: Barber hone lapping
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06-05-2007, 07:08 PM #11
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06-05-2007, 07:16 PM #12
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Thanked: 346Wouldn't these stones chew up the machine shop's surfacing bits? They are very abrasive after all, and I suspect a carbide bit designed for steel won't take kindly to milling ceramic. For that matter, the barber hones might not take kindly to being milled that way either - many of these hones are very brittle and fragile and can't survive even a drop onto linoleum.
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06-05-2007, 07:18 PM #13
Sounds like someone's speaking from experience...
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06-05-2007, 08:16 PM #14
You would not mill one of these [hone]. You would grind it on a surface grinder using a diamond wheel (or maybe even less). I've never trued a hone but a shop I worked for did true granite check blocks in a similar fashion (these have to be incredibly precise as they are used to take measurements off. usually within .00005").
You would not hunk right into the stone (that would cause it to break/crack and could destroy the wheel. very expensive to replace $$$) with the grinder. You would take several light passes that each would take off less than a hair width. Most likely they would marker the top surface were you can see at which point the stone is level (I would), then do an a final pass for shits and grins. I used to do the same technique to level carbide stamp tools. Carbide is also very brittle.
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06-05-2007, 08:36 PM #15
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Thanked: 335Surface grinding
Randy, Brian,
I have access to and have used a surface grinder, but am not sure that I would choose to use it on a hone. My limited familiarization with the machine is that with it's magnetic table, it's just the cat's PJs for grinding steel. Clamping non-magnetic material could be a real problem and the wheel would have to be much harder than the hone or it would glaze immediately. And I don't have a clue what those hones are made of.
Bruce
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06-05-2007, 09:48 PM #16
Bruce, Yes most do have a magnetic chuck (surface) that you can turn on and off. You would hold something like a hone in place with steel blocks (scraps) (shorter than the hone of course) due to it being non-ferrous (that's how you would grind any non-ferrous material). I would think a dressed diamond wheel would make short work of leveling out a hone. I might go with a different wheel first (cheaper). But before you run out and buy a surface grinder (kind of heavy ) see what kind of deal a shop would do for you.
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06-06-2007, 12:08 AM #17
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06-06-2007, 04:26 AM #18
To tell you the truth I would have no idea. I never was near the office when I was doing that type of work. From my experience it would take like 10-15 minutes to do it. So I can't see them charging much.
What I can tell you is I did all sorts of side jobs super cheap. If you were to walk up to the guys outside for a smoke break or lunch I'm sure they might be inclined to so as well if ya know what I mean.
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06-06-2007, 10:08 PM #19
My neighbor lent me his 3"x8" 400 med grit Rockler diamond stone (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?p...pen%20diamond).
I used it true out both sides of an old 2"x4" barber hone. It did a really good job but I'm not sure I would stop there. It might need a little finishing with a higher grit. I don't think I would recommend these Rockler's either. It was not perfectly flat but did the job. I don't have one but maybe a DMT? With larger or more expensive stones I would take them into a machine shop. This was a cheapo small barber hone. It did a great job, it was way out of wack before I did it. I would think something like this would throw a larger stone out of wack more than it would help.
-Brian