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Thread: Shapton Kuromaku Stones Thoughts/ Shapton Pro Stones

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Try getting closer for photos, touching the blade or as close as possible.

    Don’t worry about the edge, just joint it, (one stroke) and re-set. Jointing will give you a straight fresh edge, re-setting will only take a few laps, if your bevels were meeting to begin with.

    What cause the edge issue is hard to say from those photos, I suspect it could be the slurry and pressure. Loose the slurry, you don’t need it anyway.

    So make sure your bevels are meeting at the bevel set. If you see you are not honing to the edge, change your tape. It is not a bad idea to change your tape with each stone when you are learning. It is easy to burn through tape with an aggressive stone and too much pressure. Too much pressure on a hollow ground blade can lift the edge off the stone.

    Alternate your stria, by doing finish strokes at a 45 degree, heel forward on the bevel setter, then straight strokes on the 5k. You will quickly see if you are removing the previous stria. Continue alternating the honing angle with each stone change and stria pattern to check your progress.

    Once the bevel is set, the hardest thing is removing the deep 1k or whatever your bevel setter stria is. Usually that is at the 4-5k level where you begin to polish. Then polish at 8k, you may want to joint the edge again and re-set on the 8K, removing the 5k stria. It should go quickly. Keep looking at the edge to make sure you did not muff it.

    Change your tape before the finisher and clean your stone, holder and work area of lower grit swarf. Then polish out the 8k stria, for a straight edge and smooth uniform bevel on the 15k.

    With your edge, as it is now, put new tape on the spine, ink the bevel and joint the edge on the 5k now polish out all the lower grit stria, until all you have is uniform 5k stria.

    Then if the edge is straight, move to the 8k, if it is ragged joint and polish on the 8k. Then change the tape and polish out the 8k stria on the 15K. The whole thing should only take a few minutes, 15-20. You should end up with a super straight edge, and only 15k stria on the bevel.
    lz6 likes this.

  2. #12
    The Great & Powerful Oz onimaru55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dafonz6987 View Post

    the 15k, this is were I spend the least time I would say I will get 25 passes because if I go any further the edge will start the micro chipping. I have no idea why this happens but it doesn't fail that if I get careless and not count the edge is ruined and I have to go back to the 8k until it's gone again. I have had someone try and replicate this issue who was a honemister (IMO) and he had done about 100 laps and didn't have the issue now how or why this happened I haven't got a clue but it didn't happen, it was craziness!
    If you're using the ha no kuromaku stones it's called a 12k not 15k. The reason the honemeister didn't have your problem is that his touch is light & you would be using more pressure than he did. Very easy to chip a 12k edge with pressure.
    As some of the guys have said you don't have a bevel set & you are mashing the edge with pressure. The HNK stones are simply not an easy stone to learn for razor beginners.

    There is a recent thread on Shaptons if you havent already read it:
    http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...gressions.html

    btw the "chipping" you mention is most likely a burr. Run the edge on a glass & watch it miraculously disappear.
    If it does'nt it is chipping & again that comes back to excessive pressure & /or bad steel.
    Last edited by onimaru55; 05-03-2016 at 12:59 AM.
    lz6 likes this.
    “The white gleam of swords, not the black ink of books, clears doubts and uncertainties and bleak outlooks.”

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