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Thread: Touching up
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06-01-2016, 06:39 PM #11
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06-02-2016, 02:09 AM #12
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Thanked: 3215Nope,
Yesterday did 10 razors on the GS20, jointed each edge coming off a pristine 12k super stone bevel and edge.
and 10 laps later the edge was back… An extra 10, is the edge I like,
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06-02-2016, 02:13 AM #13
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06-02-2016, 02:26 AM #14
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Thanked: 3215“This may sound naive but wouldn't jointing the edge even on a 20K completely ruin the bevel? Why wouldn't I have to go back to a 1K to reset it?”
Because, the bevels are already flat and set at the proper angle. All you do by jointing is remove the very edge. So that, you now have a straight, super thin edge, where the bevels are not meeting.
You only have to remove a microscopic amount of steel from the flat bevels to get them to meet again, (usually 10-15 laps).
It is not bread-knifing, it is a very lite touching of the edge on a single point, the corner of the stone, usually enough to remove a micro-chip or weak steel.
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06-02-2016, 02:42 AM #15
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Thanked: 3215When we hone a razor from a bevel set, the goal is to,
1. Flatten the bevels from heel to toe and from the back of the bevel to the edge in a single plane.
2. Set the proper bevel angle from edge to spine.
3. Grind the bevels to meet in a straight edge from heel to toe.
BTW No. 1 is where most new honers fail. And if No. 1, does not happen, 2 & 3 can’t happen…
Once all 3 goals occur, then it is just a matter of polishing the bevel to produce smaller stria, that will make a straighter (more comfortable) edge.
So if the bevels are flat and at the proper angle, you just need to make them meet, and that can usually be done on a high grit aggressive stone. You don’t need to bevel set it and certainly do not need a 1k.
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06-02-2016, 02:55 AM #16
A oldtimer once told me "It is easier to keep a razor honed than is it is honing a razor." Sage advice still. Proper shaving technique,correct stropping and catching the edge before it has deteriated too far is the secret to long blade life.