Thread: Can't keep an edge

I was going to get around to helping him but thanks for doing it for me.

No probs Ron. It was bugging me I couldn't find Erics tutorial quicker

Originally Posted by Glock27

Thank you for the information. First know that I am completely illiterate on computers. I have been cruzing this site, and it is all confusing to me. It is like reading Russian. Posting a picture. I have absolutely no idea how to do that. You mention read this thread first, but no thread is referenced so I don't understand what thread to go to.

Hey Glock, sorry was not on line earlier.

If you see a line in a thread that is underlined it is a link, usually to the post that they are talking about, just click on it and it will take you automatically to the thread so you can read it.

I the case you are talking about it is the Second Try at Honing thread.

Here it is again, just click on the underlined section above.

And don’t use the diamond plates to hone on, you can use them for repairs but they will cause some deep scratches that will take a lot of honing to remove.

Thank you for your reply. I appreciate it more than you could recognize. The water stones I have are Norton, and one Chinese water stone listed as 15,000 grit. I primarily stay with the Arkansas stones; it just takes so much time to set the water stones up, soaking them for 30 minutes, having a water tub to set the stones over and keeping them wet. I feel about the same with the diamond hones I have. Problem there is that the water will not stay evenly spread across the hones--the water beads up.
I have a 10x loop and when I check the edge of the Joseph Allen I can see tiny nicks and the edge looks rugged. I have contemplated taping the spine and going at it. I have been reading the library page, but so far I have come across nothing that seems revelatory for me, or strikes me "Ah Ha!".
It is odd that I have been using a straight razor for at least or close to 40 years and don't know squat. I have just thought, sharpen and shave, however it seems to take me for ever to get the blade right. The reason for that is that I have recognized I know nothing about straight razors.
I am blabbing now so I will stop.
With All Due Respect
Glock 27(Tom)

Thanks Onimaru55. I shall give it a go. Much appreciated.

Tom - I bought a shallow cookie pan for my water hones. They get soaked about 10 to 15 minutes before use, I set them up on one of the Norton boxes in the cookie pan so the edge of the pan isn't in the way. I keep a spray bottle of water handy for when the hones dry out.

Usually I'll toss the hone(s) I want to use in a bucket, and by the time my honing station is setup they're ready to roll. The hard part for me is leaving them out to dry up after use.

Thanks Marshall. I really appreciate your response. I just soaked my Norton. It is a two sided stone 1000/2000. . I am curious about taping the spine. I am using a 10x loop and the edge looks rough. I have gone about 60 laps and there appears to be little change. Can you advise about how much I should do. Currently I can draw the blade across my thumb pad with no cutting. In the past I just kept going and going and going. I don't know if you can do too much. How do you know you are over honing a blade?

You cannot hone by formula, especially when bevel setting. You will have to use however many laps are necessary to join the two bevels into an edge. With some razors, this may be a few dozen; with others it can be hundreds. Do not worry about over honing - getting the bevels to meet is your first priority. Once they are joined, there will be no shadows or reflections at the very edge and it should shave arm hair easily.

Originally Posted by Glock27

Thanks Marshall. I really appreciate your response. I just soaked my Norton. It is a two sided stone 1000/2000. . I am curious about taping the spine. I am using a 10x loop and the edge looks rough. I have gone about 60 laps and there appears to be little change. Can you advise about how much I should do. Currently I can draw the blade across my thumb pad with no cutting. In the past I just kept going and going and going. I don't know if you can do too much. How do you know you are over honing a blade?

Your best bet is to use a sharpie on the bevel. Some recommend putting the edge on the felt and running it across the blade. I don't mind getting sharpie everywhere, so I start about 1/16" to 1/8" beyond the bevel on the blade and run the sharpie out. It's slower, so you have to make 50 or so 'dashes' perpendicular to the bevel, but it will cover the whole bevel. I recommend a red or green. Seems to be easier on the eyes than black, especially with a 10x loupe. From there, do 2-3 passes on the stone. Then look at what sharpie is left, that will indicate where you are missing and will have to adjust your stroke to cover the whole edge. At 1000/2000, you won't really "over-hone" but remove more steel than necessary, which is pretty inevitable while learning or changing old habit. To save metal and make it easier, you can use only the 2000 side for bevel setting. It will take longer, but it will work. Always, always, always end each stone with light pressure.

I wouldn't worry about actually testing the bevel until the edge of the razor has the roughness removed and is completely even. At that point, I would test on various limb hair and look for reflections. I use a 60x loupe and check my bevel from every single possible angle to see anything out of place. However, that is overkill. A 30x-40x loupe can be reasonably purchased from various places under 5 bucks.

A mention on pressure. I use very light pressure on everything and purposefully work slowly, constantly checking with my loupe every 10-15 strokes. I will spend at least 45 minutes on each stone (after the bevel is set). I have done it faster, but this isn't a race and it isn't (well, some of us) our job. Rushing our honing (unless you've honed hundreds or thousands, even then maybe not) is only going to make twice as much work. Slow down, grab a cold beverage of choice and work each stone until it can improve your edge no more.

Tom - like they said, it take what it takes. Usually I'll do a set amount of strokes, somewhere between 20 and 40, then check to see if the edge is suitable. How many passes between checks depends on how dull the blade is.

You mentioned that you like your Arkansas stones. There are things you can do to speed them up. Have you seen this thread?

http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...lurry-ark.html

A small piece of coticule for the experiment costs about 15 bucks from Straight Razor Designs, I just got one myself to experiment with. You can also rough up your soft Arkie with a Diamond hone around 300 to 400 grit, maybe the same for the hard but around 1000. Just to keep them cutting quick and unburnished. Solitary Soldier left a nice video in his thread detailing the method. It sounds like you've got the hones, just need a little practice and patience, and maybe higher magnification. I like 60x so I can see what's going on at the very edge.

I don't think I've ever Ober honed anything. But I've definitely under-honed an edge. I think that problem is more common than over honing.