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Thread: Coticule slurry on an Ark.
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05-30-2016, 01:09 AM #21
I personally don't burnish my soft or hard. Only my finishers. I like the cutting power of a freshly lapped soft and hard. That's just me though. Of course you could always burnish one side and lap the other too.
Last edited by Steel; 05-30-2016 at 01:34 AM.
What a curse be a dull razor; what a prideful comfort a sharp one
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05-30-2016, 01:14 AM #22
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Thanked: 481Well, I figure there's no harm in prepping them like all my other stones since they're not bound to wood. One side roughed up for fast cutting and slurry work, one that's burnished for a finer edge - probably mostly for pocket knives that I'll never take beyond the hard stone anyway.
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05-30-2016, 01:25 AM #23
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05-30-2016, 01:41 AM #24
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05-31-2016, 05:18 PM #25
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Thanked: 3215
Nice stone, looks like it might be a dirty Translucent.
I have had good luck soaking in Simple Green and water and most recently with 99 cent store, “Awesome” to remove the deep oil, may take weeks.
You can achieve the same results using the non-burnished side with circles with pressure and finish on the burnished side with lite pressure.
Circles are great for removing material because of the cross directional honing.
Slurries work well from coticules and Thüringen’s. They will cut a bit faster if you do not thin the slurries. Work it to a thin mud, then add a small drop of water. Keep doing circles on a thick slurry until the bevel is fully set.
Then thin and finish on clear water.
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05-31-2016, 05:35 PM #26
http://straightrazorpalace.com/hones...6-washita.html
Freshly lapped
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05-31-2016, 07:11 PM #27
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Thanked: 3215Then you don't need or want to burnish it.
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06-01-2016, 03:48 PM #28
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Thanked: 7I never got a great edge off a coticule and this method gave me some fear about naturals.
My understanding originally was you can use a black arkansas and run a "dilucot" (whatever that method actually means, as everyone does it differently) with coticule slurry.
I thought about buying a black arkansas, but I'm nervous about the flattening procedure.
But... it works eh? That's promising.
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06-03-2016, 01:28 AM #29
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Thanked: 481Well, I got my coticule bit from SRD a few days back, and my Best Sharpening Stones Soft and Hard hones came in the mail today. Naturally I had to mess around with them. I picked out my WH Morley & Sons clover stamp and (much to my chagrin) dulled it on the edge of the soft Arkie until I could pop my hand without cutting it.
Ignore the Norton on the side, he's just hanging out there from a previous experiment with a Gold Dollar. For our purpose it was not used. Built up a slurry on the Ark using water and the coticule bit:
Hard to see since it's the same color as the Arkansas stone, but it's nice and milky. Started honing at 8:27 PM. At this point it's a good time to mention that most of my honing is done in sets of back and forth passes, somewhat like Gary Haywood on youtube. Usually it will be 20/10/5/3/2/1 and then 10-20 X strokes. So after 1 set with heavy pressure (maybe 2 minutes) later:
Pretty quick color change. As I diluted the slurry, I lowered the amount of pressure on the blade. 20 minutes later (Exactly 8:47) with a barely visible slurry it was starting to stick to the stone so I checked to see if it was popping arm hairs:
Cleaned the rest of the slurry off, and finished with pure water. Took less than 1 set with no pressure for the razor to start sticking to the hone pretty good. At this point I checked under my 60x loupe and for the most part was happy with what I saw. The bevel was set heel to toe, and if it weren't for pre-existing microchips this puppy would probably be ready for the next phase. Part of me wants to joint the edge and repeat the process until the chips are worn out of the blade. Maybe another day.Last edited by Marshal; 06-03-2016 at 01:41 AM.
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06-03-2016, 01:45 AM #30
Great to see your progress. I would joint and make sure they're gone. I know it's a pain in the as but worth it.