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06-03-2016, 07:38 PM #1
Of course, I was just kidding about purposefully complicating things as a scientist. I'm also an educator - as I posted in response to Glenn's excellent feedback.
As other's have pointed out (BobH, eKtretz and Glenn), and I suspect they are correct - there are likely too many variables to the process that will make the simple measurement of pressure an ineffective metric to explain that portion of the process. The hone, the condition of the blade, the experience of the honer will all translate to uncontrollable variables. If I created a "pressure guide" it would invariably be used incorrectly with a blade for which it was not intended, on a hone for which it was not intended, and a condition for which it was not appropriate. The end result would likely be higher frustration because a beginner might see it as a silver bullet and expectations would be higher. I could control most of those things in a classroom - but certainly not over the web.
Good discussion - thanks all.
AdamLast edited by aalbina; 06-03-2016 at 08:23 PM.
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06-03-2016, 09:03 PM #2
I think the most helpful would be a "Do Not Ever Exceed This...." with the thinner blades. Of course, depending on how wide the blade is and how thin is thin. That would require much experimentation with a range of blades from different manufacturers.
Plus, ballpark numbers are nice for people to get a sense of what to see at what point in a more translatable fashion.
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06-03-2016, 09:07 PM #3
I have to agree with Glen, and others. Practice makes perfect ........ or thereabouts. Knowing how much pressure in increments is fine if you also know what the results of particular increments on particular blades will be. Hone long enough, with various razors, and you'll intuitively know what is working and what isn't. IME.
Be careful how you treat people on your way up, you may meet them again on your way back down.
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06-03-2016, 11:42 PM #4
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Thanked: 13249Just leaving this here for fun
Yes it really is an electric SR honing machine
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The Following User Says Thank You to gssixgun For This Useful Post:
jmercer (06-04-2016)
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06-04-2016, 12:02 AM #5
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Thanked: 3795Glen, did you buy that?
It works pretty well!
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06-06-2016, 01:49 AM #6
Adam, I admire your enthusiasm for eliminating variables in this sport. Having been self educated in this myself, with the internet as a resource, I have also had a hard time translating the subjective descriptors. Brush characteristics & lather explanations come to mind.
I have a similar idea of uniform metrics that people could apply to brushes.
I find such intellectual exercises fun & exhilarating.
Video, or it didn't happen!!!Last edited by Crawler; 06-06-2016 at 02:05 AM.
Decades away from full-beard growing abilities.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Crawler For This Useful Post:
aalbina (06-07-2016)
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06-06-2016, 05:14 AM #7
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Thanked: 3215Ironically, I find that many guys, do not use enough pressure on the bevel set to get the bevel flat. We have drummed in the light pressure, so much that they don’t remove enough material to set a bevel fully.
It isn’t, so much the variables, it is, the target is constantly moving.
The mantra is, “You have to do, what the razor needs, (the moving target).
But first, you have to read the razor, to figure out what that is and that that may change.
The issue with formulaic honing is, none of us have exactly the same stone progression, same razor with the same grind and level of warp or other issue that the guy making the video did, (variables)…
The bottom line is, as Glen said, hone… same advice they give Athletes, Musicians, Writers, and Race Car drivers… seat time.
Or Hands on mentoring.
Can’t tell you how many guys say, “There are so many little things, that you just don’t get, in the videos, no matter how many times you watch.”
It really is about little things, like the elbow, stone prep, cleanliness (grit contamination), stroke and understanding, the adage, “Doing the same thing and expecting a different result, is…
You can, figure it out on your own, it just takes longer. It really is as simple as, Set the bevel, fully set the bevel, then just remove the previous stria with each subsequent stria.
Use some pressure to set the bevel, then do finish laps with lite pressure on your bevel setter. On each subsequent stone, use pressure to remove the stria, then lighten up on pressure, to polish and lay down a new stria pattern. As the grit get finer, you need less pressure.
If you use too much pressure and the edge becomes, ragged or chipping, just joint it, re-set it and move on.
Eventually you will get to where you understand what is needed and you can remove the stria and polish at the same time. Ink and magnification are inexpensive and your best friend, use them.