Thread: Time spent to remove nicks on the edge?

Hello honers!

I was wondering how fast is it for your to remove this type of small nicks on this kind of blade(hollow ground Otto Busch razor)

I have a classic Naniwa 1000-3000 since 4 years now, and it generally takes me more than an hour to remove defaults and set a correct bevel.

What do you think? Too much time? Low quality abrasive?

Some pics:

If you mean the chipping at the toe, the time it takes to remove it would depend on the stone used.
a 400 grit stone will be a lot faster than any 1k stone, and among the 1k stones there will be difference in speed.

No idea if that is too long or not, never timed it. I use a 1K Naniwa for that sort of thing and sometimes it goes quickly and other times it takes longer. It takes what it takes to make sure the chips/nicks are removed and the bevel is really set or there is no sense going any further.

Bob

Thanks for your replies, basically I meant with an equal stone, 1000 grit stone;
I was talking about the chips towards the nose of the blade.

Last time I had to deal with a nibble like that I did it on the Norton 4K just to see what I and the stone could do. Took about an hour to get it squared away. I usually try not to watch the clock too much though. I'm doing it for fun not money, so if it takes a little longer it's no big deal.

It pretty much takes as long as it takes. We all do these things at different speeds. Personally, and in my opinion only, if that were my razor I would get the clean up and polish out of the way before I went near a hone. That is a great make of shaving razor you have there. Good luck.

An hour, to completely hone a razor is not a lot, depending on how often you hone razors.

Removing the chip should only take a few minutes, (bread knife it), setting the bevel on the 1k may take a bit more time with a 1k, but 10-15 minutes. Then run through a progression and a finisher.

More importantly, it looks like that razor may be Cell Rot, just kicking off. The eating of the edge and the pitting on the blade, looks as though, it may match the pattern of the Cracked Ice scales and may be in the early stages. That style of Cracked Ice is notorious for rotting.

Does the blade center well in the scales, are they warped, is the wedge larger than the scales or do they smell funny, does the pitting on the blade match up with the pattern on the scales, when closed?

You will want to clean the razor before honing or you will ruin the edge when you clean it after honing. You want to clean it or all that rust on the blade will contaminate your strop.

At the very least, clean it, do not store it with other razors and keep an eye on it.

If that is Cell Rot, you may have trouble with the edge crumbling and may have to remove more that just to the bottom of the chips.

As a matter of fact my question was more a way to evaluate the efficiency of my bevel setter/chip remover.

I have the feeling that it takes way too long comparing to what I 've read here and there; so I was just considering to get a new one.

I'm just honing my personal razors since 4-5 years now, to shave with it, no for a service; the thing is I have dozens of razors waiting for honing.

Euclid, thank you for the warning!

I think this regular oxydation and not cell Rot even if as you mentionned, it matches with the scales when the blade is closed.
Usually with cell rot, it's often too late and the blade is not salvageable, and the rust is more even and spread on the blade, from the rare cases I saw of course.

The pin is a little bit loose so the blade moves between the scales, no particular smell.

I also have a vintage DOVO 88 razor with exactly the same scales and no trouble at this time.

You're right I should have polished this razor before honing but I was to rushed to test it!

Thanks for your advices and opinions.

Originally Posted by guillaume

As a matter of fact my question was more a way to evaluate the efficiency of my bevel setter/chip remover.

I have the feeling that it takes way too long comparing to what I 've read here and there; so I was just considering to get a new one.

.

If you are otherwise satisfied with the performance of your 1k hone, I would suggest that you get a 400 or 600 grit hone for chip removal and other fixes, a Niniwa Chosera would be my choice. This will be the cheapest solution. If you really like to upgrade your 1k, then get the 1k Chosera.

That stone looks like the Naniwa Economical Water Stone, and should be fine for honing. They are a bit smaller but work well, if you are careful. It does look as if it has seen some use.

The 1K side should easily set the bevel on that razor, bread knife or high angle hone it (45 degree) to the bottom of the chips, then hone it with 2 layers of tape and some pressure.

Once you set the bevel, remove one layer, lightly joint the edge and reset the bevel with light pressure.

Cell Rot has many forms and attacks differently, depending on the formulation of the scales, but that pattern of Cracked Ice is particularly prone to it. I always suspect it when I come across it.