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Thread: Coti? Jnat??

  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Quote Originally Posted by Clayglen View Post
    It also seems only a few natural stones use slurry. Slate, Scottish and Arkansas don't seem to. They are also mentioned less as well. Lower quality of the edge??
    Thanks

    Sent from my SCH-I435 using Tapatalk
    Just noticed this and felt the need to address this. I cannot speak for scottish hones from experience, I do not own any. From what I've read though, the right one can create a decent shaving edge. Perhaps not as smooth as an escher or coticule, but they will get you close, clean and comfortable.

    I do have Welsh slates and Arkansas hones. Slates can slurry, mine do very easily and they cut relatively quickly when slurried up. The edge left behind depends entirely on the slate used. I can match a Norton 8K with my Dragon's Tongue, or I can match an Arkansas stone edge with my Black Welsh slate.

    Arkansas stones are a slightly different beast. They're very hard to abrade, and building a slurry made up of Arkansas stone material is simply not worth the effort in my estimation. IF you had one and wanted to use slurry, you'll very much want a softer stone that breaks down more readily. Like a set of Japanese Nagura stones, or a coticule rubbing stone. The edge left by a Vintage Hard, True Hard, Translucent, or Surgical Black (varying names for the same quality stone) is very nice and tough to beat. If their popularity is lacking, it is because they are slow and fairly pricey not because of the edge quality.

  2. #12
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Bevel set on the Norton, a 4k, will easily set a bevel, unless you are doing serious repair, (large Chip Removal) and even then you can do it, just take some time.

    Remove the 4k stria with the Norton 8k.

    Finish on 1um film. 1um will finish much nicer, than most finishing stones, and if you have it already…

    Get a 12X3 in glass tile from Lowe’s about 4-5 bucks, lap it flat with a 300-ish, Diamond plate or sheet of 320 wet & dry and you are golden.

    The hardest part for knife guys, to get is diagnosing problems with razors and the realization that more pressure and lower grits are not the answer. And the comfort, thing. It does not exist in knives, sharp is all that matters.

    With razors, comfort is what matters. If a razor is super sharp, but leaves you face feeling like an acid burn, it does you no good.

    Sharp is easy, comfort, well that is a bit different, and that is what we are all chasing max sharp and MAX comfort.
    Marshal likes this.

  3. #13
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    I've noticed improved comfort with paste after 1u film. I can't say my stroping or honing techniques are golden. I'm happy with the shaves.
    Nortons are in route. More to learn, more fun experimenting.

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  4. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth
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    Are you using a sheet of paper under the 1um after you set the 1um edge?

    That will polish 1/3 of the bevel, from the edge back and really smooth out the shaving edge. You can then just strop it well on leather or Chrome Oxide or .50um CBN, Super keen and comfortable.

    Are you using Diamond or Aluminum Oxide film? Diamond can be harsh.

  5. #15
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    I haven't been using paper. I just learned that trick recently. I'm sure it is chrome oxide. I'd have to look at the order. I've just been learning on what to look at in a loup. I may be jumping grit too soon as well.

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