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Thread: Norton 4k not cutting
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06-10-2007, 02:40 PM #11
They way I think of "glazing" is when the pores of stone become clogged with it's own grit from the sanding, then creating a glass like surface. I agree "loaded" would be any outside particle such as metal filings and tape accumulating in the grit of the stone.
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06-10-2007, 04:02 PM #12
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
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- 882
Thanked: 108Thanks Gravitas. What causes glazing? Using a too-high-grit medium for lapping?
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06-10-2007, 04:34 PM #13
I've wondered this myself. I believe, and anyone please correct me if I'm wrong, it is from not using enough water combined with nondurable sandpaper. The paste that is formed from the abrasives get clogged in the pores as the grit on the sandpaper wears down. With the 600 grit paper I used, after only 1-2 minutes of lapping the paper was completely smooth, and the slurry was pressed into the stone.
I was reading this morning that a very course sandpaper could be used to correct this. Say you use a <100 grit to create a very abbrasive surface on the stone which removes the clogged surface, then go back to your normal lapping method to smooth out the abrasions. I'm going to give this a try because I've run out of options and I'll let you all know.Last edited by Gravitas; 06-10-2007 at 04:40 PM.
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06-10-2007, 06:42 PM #14
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
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- Phoenix, AZ
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- 13
Thanked: 0Typically glazing is a term that began with wheels. If your wheel is harder than the stock being removed, it "glazes". Also, If a wheel is moving to fast without enough pressure, it may "glaze". With a benchstone, it seems that glazing would only happen with hard material, such as an arkansas or ceramic, not so much a soft waterstone.
Loading would be where particulates "clog" the porousness of the stone. Flattening it should "unload" it.
Try more pressure on the lower grits, or at first on a lapping stone. Use less pressure with finer grit or after a minute on the flattening stone.
I stand by my purchase of a granite tile from the Depot, then having it checked for flatness at a local machine shop. I scored the surface with an angle grinder in a checkerboard pattern, onto which I simply began rubbing my soaked stone on it. Its own grit rubs off and works as a lapping compound. I mark my hone/stone with a pencil, and lap until they disappear after 2-3 rubs.
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06-11-2007, 03:20 AM #15
Believe it or not the flattening stone was not flat! When does it end. Some 220 and a glass plate took care of this.
Worked like a charm, the stone is now cutting how it used too. I used the flattening stone, then applied less pressure with the 600 grit paper jsut to take the abrasive layer that formed off.
Thanks to everyone for your input in helping me repair the stone! Much appreciated.
JR