Thread: Pitted W&B for Honing

I would sharpen her up and leave her nasty looking. They look better that way to me, then again, I think Willie Nelson's guitar is beautiful.

Since this will be my second honed razor, first without help....

I will be using a Naniwa 1K to set the bevel.

Will the bow come out naturally?

Should I not worry about it at all?

Should I lead with the toe or put pressure to try and even it?

I bought primarily to practice honing but if the pitting doesn't hit the edge so I have clean steel she may be a keeper.....

You want to maintain that smile. A smile on a razor is like a smile on your wife, you never want it to go away. Watch gssixgun videos on honing a smiling wedge for a demonstration of a good technique.

Originally Posted by RezDog

You want to maintain that smile. A smile on a razor is like a smile on your wife, you never want it to go away. Watch gssixgun videos on honing a smiling wedge for a demonstration of a good technique.

Pretty sure this is the best advice I have heard in a long time. Wise man RezDog

Should I pencil mark and lap them first?

yes. if they are out of flat by a lot do it twice. most are pretty quick to lap.

The 8k had a small drop on one corner, I left it but the rest of the stones look good. I am assuming the scratches are a by product of the lapping.

Originally Posted by gflight

Since this will be my second honed razor, first without help....

I will be using a Naniwa 1K to set the bevel.

Will the bow come out naturally?

Should I not worry about it at all?

Should I lead with the toe or put pressure to try and even it?

I bought primarily to practice honing but if the pitting doesn't hit the edge so I have clean steel she may be a keeper.....

The 1K Nani is as good a bevel setter as any.

The smile (bow) will come out if you use enough straight up and down strokes. Personally, a little bit of a smile is not such a bad thing. To keep it I would use a scything X stroke.

Even if the pitting hits the edge you can still, most likely, hone past it to good steel. It may take a while longer on the bevel setter is all.

Bob

Well, first clean it, after doing a couple laps, to see if the edge will take an edge.

If you leave all that rust and tarnish on the blade, you will impregnate your strop with that rust. Rust is abrasive and once you get it on leather, you can never remove it completely.

If you clean it after, you hone, you will ruin the edge.

Measure the smile, to find out, if it is even from heel to toe, that will determine how you will hone it. It looks like the heel is narrower than the toe. Here is a post on shaping the smile so it is even. (Make Me Smile)

You want to shape it first, then hone it, though you can do it by honing, but is really an advanced honing technique not recommended for a new honer.

You can easily remove the smile by bread knifing it, but as said, I too would leave it. I am not seeing a curve in the spine.