Thread: Inefficient hair removal after honing

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“I side-tracked that thread because I saw no point in allowing the continued propagation of what I consider to be a completely wrong interpretation.”

Wow, you really are full of yourself, that was over a year and a half, ago…

I did not know you could channel Iwasaki. I suppose, that jewel was based on your translation of the original, Japanese?

Dude, you really need to eat more fiber… or something.

More importantly, your post, has nothing to do with the OP’s question.

Again, you are not being helpful, but, you certainly are living up to your reputation.

"eat more fiber"...Marty you're killing me. I just about spit my milk all over the computer!
I'm still laughing!!

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“I side-tracked that thread because I saw no point in allowing the continued propagation of what I consider to be a completely wrong interpretation.”

Wow, you really are full of yourself, that was over a year and a half, ago…

I did not know you could channel Iwasaki. I suppose, that jewel was based on your translation of the original, Japanese?

Dude, you really need to eat more fiber… or something.

More importantly, your post, has nothing to do with the OP’s question.

Again, you are not being helpful, but, you certainly are living up to your reputation.

HAHA

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“I side-tracked that thread because I saw no point in allowing the continued propagation of what I consider to be a completely wrong interpretation.”

Wow, you really are full of yourself, that was over a year and a half, ago…

I did not know you could channel Iwasaki. I suppose, that jewel was based on your translation of the original, Japanese?

Dude, you really need to eat more fiber… or something.

More importantly, your post, has nothing to do with the OP’s question.

Again, you are not being helpful, but, you certainly are living up to your reputation.

You linked to the old thread. I did not. You once again have been rude. I was not.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

So, to hone a smiling razor, there are 2 easy methods.

Use a Heel forward, Rolling X stroke, where you vary the pressure by lightly torqueing the edge, onto the stone and slightly lifting the heel, as you travel down and across the stone, especially when bevel setting. Ink will help here, visualizing where you are making contact on the bevel.

Or you can hone the razor, in 3 parts, straight hone the toe, middle and heel separately, then blend the 3 facets with an X stroke.

Either way you can vary the pressure, to even up the bevel width to a degree.

The smile on your razor, is not that pronounced, but you will have to do some gymnastics and modify pressure, to get the heel and toe honed. Because of the multiple bevels, ink will help you see where you are making contact and honing to the edge.

The Chosera will easily cut a new bevel. This is a repair, not your garden variety honing at this point.

In this case, even though you are setting a bevel, it is more repair work, where you will be using more pressure, than usual, to cut a new bevel. Once you cut a new, single, flat bevel, you will probably have a chippy edge, joint the edge and reset the whole edge with light pressure.

A lot will depend on the condition of the razor.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Here is a good post, that is basically on jointing and honing to an already straight edge. Hone a Straight Edge or to a Straight Edge?

The thread does get a bit side tracked about the interpretation of Iwasaki’s method, but there is still a lot of good discussion.

In that thread on post 33 there is a link to Alex Gilmore’s video of honing a razor. At about 6.25, Alex joints the razor using his interpretation of the Iwasaki method.

I believe in some of Glenn’s videos, he also demonstrates the technique as I describe below.

I typically just very lightly draw the razor from heel to toe across the upper vertical corner of the stone one time. It removes any false edge and straightens the edge. The bevels will no longer be meeting, but will come back to meeting in 6-10 light laps.

Alex says the technique is similar to killing an edge on a glass, but I feel a stone cuts a fresh edge, where a glass rolls the edge and it eventually breaks off.

Make sure to watch part 2, post 35, of Alex’s method.

BTW, Alex has many great videos of honing and his AX Method at his site, the Japan Stone.

Originally Posted by Utopian

I side-tracked that thread because I saw no point in allowing the continued propagation of what I consider to be a completely wrong interpretation. I will continue to maintain that this interpretation cannot be correct, for the same two reasons.

1. Iwasaki described this as the last step of honing. He did not say it was to prepare for the final step. He said that it was the final step. I do not believe that jointing the edge is the last honing step.

2. Iwasaki stated that this final honing step was to be done for 10-15 minutes. I do not believe that jointing the edge should, by any stretch of the imagination, be done for 10-15 minutes.

Alex's video stated that after a single back and forth stroke, the edge was dulled. It is obvious that this stroke should not be the last honing step and should not be done for 10 minutes, so it also is obvious that this is not what Iwasaki was describing.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“I side-tracked that thread because I saw no point in allowing the continued propagation of what I consider to be a completely wrong interpretation.”

Wow, you really are full of yourself, that was over a year and a half, ago…

I did not know you could channel Iwasaki. I suppose, that jewel was based on your translation of the original, Japanese?

Dude, you really need to eat more fiber… or something.

More importantly, your post, has nothing to do with the OP’s question.

Again, you are not being helpful, but, you certainly are living up to your reputation.

Originally Posted by Utopian

You linked to the old thread. I did not. You once again have been rude. I was not.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

“I'm learning here, so I'm going to throw this question. Wouldn't be better to bypass the whole tape thing and just work on it from scratch?”


The problem is not the tape, it’s just too much tape.

I recommend new honers use tape, because new honers, generally use too much pressure on low grit stones, for too long, trying to set a bevel, and needlessly grind the spine of a razor.

Tape will protect the spine from wear, even if you use too much pressure. The worst, that could happen with a taped spine, is the edge might get chippy. Jointing the edge and re-setting the bevel in a few light laps, will fix a chippy edge, once the bevels are flat.

Once a new honer masters, setting a bevel with, the right amount of pressure, then decide if you want to continue to use tape or not.

Really, there is no downside to using tape, where guys get into trouble, is if you use more than 2 layers and it starts to get squishy, the bevel gets uneven. You can use more than 2 layers, if you keep the tape tight and fresh on the spine, but you don’t often need more than 2 layers of tape.

The hardest part of setting a bevel for most is recognizing when a bevel is fully set.

Here, is a good thread, with great micrographs, of what to look for, what a properly set bevel looks like, and more importantly, what the edge should look like. Second Try at Honing

“You linked to the old thread. I did not. You once again have been rude. I was not.”


Whew, boy, oh boy, man, you are making my point…

Most of us, that have been here for a while, are trying to help new guys, not dedicated to derailing posts, that we don’t agree with.

That, you proudly proclaim your pettiness, about single point, in a year and a half old thread, that has nothing to do with a current post, is somewhat disturbing.

Sorry, you feel my post is rude, but really, you should be ashamed. Perhaps you should take some time and reflect, on why you are here.

Now, say an act of Contrition, 2 Our Fathers and 10 Hail Mary’s. Go forth and sin no more. My son, you are forgiven…

Time to chill.