Thread: When to move one from 4K level

Originally Posted by onimaru55

That's because you are folding a burr over so its out of sight. As I said you can get rid of it with a few lighter strokes.

That makes sense ..

Weather I kill the edge post bevel set or not doesn't seem effect the end result ..

My edges are pure dynamite whatever I do lol

“My edges are pure dynamite whatever I do lol”


And that’s all that counts. Find a system that works for you, then perfect it.

If you change something, try to just change one thing at a time.

It is honing, removing microscopic bits of metal, to get a straight, smooth shaving edge. How you get there… is up to you.

Enjoy.

Originally Posted by vsmirnios

I have tray to understand with videos and I can.
How a new honer physically understands is done in 4K stone.
thanks

Maybe someone already mentioned this, but if you are using a Norton 4 white side/8 yellow side, one way to know when you are done with the 4K white side is that steel will not be releasing or darkening your stone or your water. That indicates that you are done on that size grit and it is time to progress to a finer grit. No microscope required. Good luck sir.
Mike

Originally Posted by MODINE

Maybe someone already mentioned this, but if you are using a Norton 4 white side/8 yellow side, one way to know when you are done with the 4K white side is that steel will not be releasing or darkening your stone or your water. That indicates that you are done on that size grit and it is time to progress to a finer grit. No microscope required. Good luck sir.
Mike

I've noticed that as well.

As simple as some may think, more than one guy has mixed up the sides of the 4/8 Norton or any un-marked combo stone.
Mike

Originally Posted by MODINE

Maybe someone already mentioned this, but if you are using a Norton 4 white side/8 yellow side, one way to know when you are done with the 4K white side is that steel will not be releasing or darkening your stone or your water. That indicates that you are done on that size grit and it is time to progress to a finer grit. No microscope required. Good luck sir.
Mike

Am I reading this right ? When the Norton 4k gets clogged up, you move to the 8k ?

I can't think of another reason why an abrasive stops cutting.

No sir. As you know the abrasive particles will not quit cutting but the efficiency will be diminished when there is less material to remove. An “indication” you reached the abrasive grits performance threshold limit is when less steel swarf juice shows up on the surface. Synthetic or natural stone / hones.

This can be easier to visually gauge at the mid-range level. The other methods outlined above work too, hopefully this is just another tool. You still have to make sure the entire edge is contacting the stone. The OP referenced a 4K stone in the opening thread and is a common question that comes up often. The 4/8 Norton was used as an example only.
Mike

Originally Posted by MODINE

No sir. As you know the abrasive particles will not quit cutting but the efficiency will be diminished when there is less material to remove. An “indication” you reached the abrasive grits performance threshold limit is when less steel swarf juice shows up on the surface. Synthetic or natural stone / hones.

This can be easier to visually gauge at the mid-range level. The other methods outlined above work too, hopefully this is just another tool. You still have to make sure the entire edge is contacting the stone. The OP referenced a 4K stone in the opening thread and is a common question that comes up often. The 4/8 Norton was used as an example only.
Mike

Yup. This happens with sanding wood too. When the wood becomes very smooth for that level of grit, the paper is no longer removing "easy" ridges but is now trying to cut into a fresh flat surface. Even with a brand new piece of sandpaper. It will still cut into the wood and remove material but not as quickly as the ridges are all gone. I think this is what is happening while honing too. It doesn't stop cutting all together but it is slowing down as the scratches are smoothed out. Like you say, another sign. A more subtle way of determine the same thing is by feel.

Seems more an indicator of bevel polish rather than edge improvement. I'll have to experiment . Got a couple of post resto Iwasaki Tama chans on the bench to hone up.

Originally Posted by onimaru55

Seems more an indicator of bevel polish rather than edge improvement. I'll have to experiment . Got a couple of post resto Iwasaki Tama chans on the bench to hone up.

I think you're right. Akin to removing scratches from previous stone.