Results 11 to 13 of 13
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10-13-2016, 10:57 PM #11
- Join Date
- Dec 2013
- Location
- Virginia
- Posts
- 1,516
Thanked: 237The difference in thickness of the spine vs the tang has me worried.
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10-13-2016, 11:38 PM #12
- Join Date
- Oct 2016
- Location
- Franklin, KY
- Posts
- 8
Thanked: 1Thanks for the great advice. I agree that I'm not going to learn on this razor. It just got me reading up on the subject for the future and what I was reading and seeing on mine weren't agreeing. I'll likely pick up another that's already honed and use it while I send this one out. This razor will likely become a showpiece with occasional use for sentimental reasons.
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10-15-2016, 04:11 PM #13
- Join Date
- Apr 2012
- Location
- Diamond Bar, CA
- Posts
- 6,553
Thanked: 3215So, you have a hundred-year old razor, most probably, as said, the spine was ground that way, and has been heavily buffed in restoration.
But, it will not matter much in honing, notice the bevel is uniform, though a tad wider at the toe than the heel, which is common.
The shape of the bevel does not follow the spine. The spine will just ride, on the high spots.
More important, tape the spine, to prevent further spine wear and hone with a rolling x stroke. Look at the edge with magnification, straight down, and you will see where your issues are. It should not take much to bring back the edge.
Though more challenging than a straight stroke, the rolling X, on a smiling razor is not as difficult as it looks. A good high grit stone and some sharpie ink will show you your progress. Just watch the ink and adjust your pressure, so you are honing in the middle of the stone and honing to the edge, removing ink all the way to the edge.
Some hands on time with a mentor will greatly cut your learning curve.
Here is a good video, by Charlie Lewis, using the rolling X.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Euclid440 For This Useful Post:
Mrchick (10-15-2016)