Thread: magic marker test on the spine

I am going on the assumption that the magic marker showed that there was no contact in the center section of the spine on only one side of the razor. In this case it is most likely that the spine of the razor is slightly out of true, or warped. My B. Löwe is the same. As you have already been informed by other helpful members, it's really not a problem - just be sure to use rolling x-strokes when honing the opposite side so as to avoid any uneven wear there if necessary (it will likely be hitting heavier in the middle on that side). Use regular x-strokes for the warped side.

I wouldn't go crazy removing steel when you don't have to. This will flatten out your spine but it may also make the bevel wonky (technical term).

Originally Posted by eKretz

I am going on the assumption that the magic marker showed that there was no contact in the center section of the spine on only one side of the razor. In this case it is most likely that the spine of the razor is slightly out of true, or warped. My B. Löwe is the same. As you have already been informed by other helpful members, it's really not a problem - just be sure to use rolling x-strokes when honing the opposite side so as to avoid any uneven wear there if necessary (it will likely be hitting heavier in the middle on that side). Use regular x-strokes for the warped side.

I wouldn't go crazy removing steel when you don't have to. This will flatten out your spine but it may also make the bevel wonky (technical term).

if the blade makes perfect contact on the oter side and honeware is even...then the spine is straight but it is overground in the middle on the side with limited spine contact.

if the blade has problems on both sides...then the blade is warped

Yes, of course. Which I'd think is probably pretty unlikely on a new B. Löwe. And I did mention that as well (the bit about heavy contact in the middle on the opposite side). It's very easy to miss a high spot in the middle since humans are not robots - our hands and arms naturally flex and pivot in a very nonlinear manner to where it's easy to miss a high spot in the middle - it doesn't take much contact to wipe off magic marker from polished steel. A low spot is different since it basically produces it's own stable honing platform due to the high spots on either side.

OP- you said the marker on the EDGE was even. Then you don't have to worry about rolling X's or anything for that matter. It is the edge we are honing and worried about. I have the EXACT same issue on a M&W. The bevel is nice and true but the spine makes a horrible sound on one side and not on the other. You can tape the spine if you don't like the sound but I just hone on and the M&W came out perfect. I also had another with a bit of pitting on the spine on one side that did the same thing but did not affect the bevel. AS LONG AS YOUR BEVEL IS MAKING CONTACT YOU ARE FINE. If the BEVEL is NOT making contact then you would need a rolling x or some other stroke to compensate.

From what you are describing on the bevel with it making even contact with the stone the toe and heel of the spine must be in line with some steel missing out of the middle keeping the bevel true on both sides. As opposed to the usual twist people are talking about that prevents the edge from making contact evenly. Two different scenarios.

Yes, worry about the bevel and edge. If you are honing right to the edge, that is all that is needed to produce a shaving edge. The spine will take care of itself in the long run.

Bob