Thread: Tape on the spine

Originally Posted by Utopian

Sorry, but that is not correct.

As "the blade size shrinks," the edge will migrate closer to the spine. The thickness of the blade increases as you get closer to the spine. This is true for a wedge, a half or quarter hollow, or a full hollow. As the edge migrates into the thicker part of the blade, the bevels will be wider.

OK, but not hugely wider then?

Bob

Originally Posted by BobH

OK, but not hugely wider then?

Bob

OK, I'll give you that.

It won't get hugely wider until it gets fartherer up the widerer part of the blade, at which point it will be hugely wider. It depends completely on the thickness of the blade.

Originally Posted by BobH

OK, but not hugely wider then?

Bob

Y U G E!! Y U G E L Y WIDE and it'll be GREATl!!!!

Originally Posted by Phrank

Y U G E!! Y U G E L Y WIDE and it'll be GREATl!!!!

Nope. No. No.

Get a vernier gauge, measure the thickness at thespine across three or four points, and then measure the height from the spine wear strip to the cutting edge and calculate. If the bevel could stand to have the edge reeled on and the spine kept as is, use tape, if the spine is already creating an obtuse bevel don't use tape for now... If Inhave to remove big chips on wedges or grind through pits to hit a bevel I usually calculate, see where I am and then go without for a time before defaulting back to one layer. I wouldn't personally go over two layers as tape is compressible. Onlu exception I make are for 18th century stubtails where the spine tends to be really thin.

Originally Posted by Phrank

Y U G E!! Y U G E L Y WIDE and it'll be GREATl!!!!

Where have I heard that before.

Bob