Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 17 of 17
Like Tree27Likes

Thread: Where to start?

  1. #11
    Historically Inquisitive Martin103's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Upstate New York
    Posts
    5,780
    Thanked: 4249
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Just cant go wrong with the Norton 4k/8k combo stone, it will last you a lifetime, tons of information about how to hone with them http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...on-2012-a.html
    strangedata likes this.

  2. The Following User Says Thank You to Martin103 For This Useful Post:

    Hirlau (12-08-2016)

  3. #12
    illegitimum non carborundum Utopian's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Rochester, MN
    Posts
    11,544
    Thanked: 3795
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ejmolitor37 View Post
    I would have to agree with Utopian, I have 1/4 Norton and that is what I still use and learned with but a full size stone would be much easier.
    This is from the website...
    Quarter 1.5" x 4" Norton- $60

    Even though the hones are smaller than a full size hone, they are 50% larger than the average barbers hone. You will have no problem honing straight razors.Even though short X passes are possible, you will probably use more circular motions than you would with a larger surface hone.


    This is just plain a LIE. Math makes it clear.
    Area of a quarter Norton = 1.5 x 4 = 6 square inches.

    An average barber hone is the size of a Swaty, which is 2 by 5. I own a lot of barber hones and this is by far the most common size.

    Area of an average barber hone = 2 x 5 = 10 square inches.

    Now, is 6 50% larger than 10???? (Hint: No it is not.)

    If the claim were true, then the average size of a barber hone would be 4 square inches, as 6 is 50% bigger than 4.

    If the average barber hone were in fact that size, then here are the potential sizes of what is being claimed to be an average barber hone.
    1 x 4
    1.5 x 2.7
    2 x 2
    NONE of these are an average sized barber hone.

    Don't buy into this lie.

  4. The Following User Says Thank You to Utopian For This Useful Post:

    KenWeir (12-09-2016)

  5. #13
    Member Lumberjack55's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Location
    Miami, FL
    Posts
    86
    Thanked: 2

    Default

    Good feedback, like so many other things this leads me to more questions. I like the idea of getting a vintage razor and as long as I don't bang things up too bad having a shaver after the fact. But that leads me into another field I knew honing would bring me. Being able evaluate them, Obviously a chip or rust means get out but what else. Pitting, I'd imaging on old razors you can have some and maybe it's not a big deal? Anything else I should be watching for?
    ejmolitor37 and Addison like this.

  6. #14
    Senior Member blabbermouth ejmolitor37's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Location
    Knoxville,IA
    Posts
    2,368
    Thanked: 762

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lumberjack55 View Post
    Good feedback, like so many other things this leads me to more questions. I like the idea of getting a vintage razor and as long as I don't bang things up too bad having a shaver after the fact. But that leads me into another field I knew honing would bring me. Being able evaluate them, Obviously a chip or rust means get out but what else. Pitting, I'd imaging on old razors you can have some and maybe it's not a big deal? Anything else I should be watching for?
    Well rust, cell rot, pits at or near the edge and excessive hone wear. Damaged scales are another thing. There are lots of things to look for depending on skill level and ambition. In the library there is lots of info on all or most of these things. Finding a razor that is rust free or darn close Is not difficult imo hone wear is something to look for. I know there are fellas on here that will be able to give you better info than I. These are some basic imo and simple things to watch for. On ebay you should be able to find a great razor to start with for little investment. Look at pics of a new razor and start looking at the spine area and you should be able to spot hone wear pretty easy. Just keep looking and asking questions lots of helpful folks on here to aid you along your way

    Sent from my SCH-R970 using Tapatalk
    Nothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...

  7. #15
    Member cmsessa's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2016
    Location
    SF
    Posts
    79
    Thanked: 14

    Default

    Get a cheap razor from ebay and don't worry about making mistakes. Documenting on the forum helped me getting a lot of great feedback from experienced users.

    Enjoy the journey.

  8. #16
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Diamond Bar, CA
    Posts
    6,553
    Thanked: 3215

    Default

    And so, it begins…

    If you feel as if, you are falling… you are.

    The next step in the progression is restoration, and restoration begins at purchase. Buy the best razor you can afford. Remember there are hundreds of thousands of vintage razors out there in the wild.

    Here is the link to the Wiki on purchasing vintage razors, packed full of good information. (Purchasing straight razors)


    Here’s what I look for, minimal or no rust, minimal or no pitting, minimal spine wear, chip free edge, appealing blade design, quality name brand. If you don’t plan on making scales, scale condition.

    Deal breakers are Cell Rot, larger chip, and cracks.
    Addison likes this.

  9. #17
    Senior Member
    Join Date
    Jul 2016
    Location
    Addison Michigan
    Posts
    627
    Thanked: 115

    Default

    PM Me Ill Be Happy To Send You A Couple I Didnt Go Through The Hole Thread,, Just Tell Me What Your Looking For Razor Wise,,, Do You Have Any Stones Might Just Have One Of Them Laying Around.. Ty

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •