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01-21-2017, 03:33 PM #1
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Thanked: 13234Yes it does and nothing really stands out as a reason that you are not getting a good edge
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01-21-2017, 03:35 PM #2
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Thanked: 13234This thread might help with some ideas
http://straightrazorpalace.com/honin...bing-over.html
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01-21-2017, 03:42 PM #3
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Thanked: 28I was careful to raise a good burr on both sides during bevel set and made sure to do enough x strokes on the 1k to erase the burr. I am still learning and don't have to do that too much anymore I am getting to where I can tell by looking and feeling if the bevel is set but went aggressive on this one to be sure.
I know that the bevel is very important and if I don't get that right further refinement is a waste of time.
How about if I return to the coti and spend some more time there? Or go back to the 8k and then coti again?
I also have a pretty nice C12k that is slow but has made some nice edges in the past.
Lastly, I have the lapping film I first learned on a year ago (still in good shape) 6um, 3um, 1um
I have a balsa strop with crox and feox sides
I strop on a Tony Miller 3" English bridle.
Sorry for the oversharing but very open to suggestions and guidance.
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01-21-2017, 04:26 PM #4
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Thanked: 3795You NEVER need to raise a burr when honing a straight razor. If you create a burr you did it wrong.
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01-21-2017, 05:17 PM #5
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Thanked: 28Ok that's why I'm here. I picked that up from a member of another forum's videos.
So- when setting the bevel count strokes? Do x strokes flipping on spine till the bevel shaves arm hair?
Please elaborate
I won't know what success looks like unless I work through my failures!
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01-21-2017, 05:32 PM #6
YMMV
A stainless steel razor is more abrasive resistant than carbon steel. Tough to hone as you are familiar with carbon steel. It takes longer and you must check progress more often.
Some people just have to make videos...whether or not they have anything worthwhile to pass on. Check post count here and videos from the old timers.
~Richard
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The Following User Says Thank You to Geezer For This Useful Post:
Aerdvaark (01-28-2017)
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01-21-2017, 06:04 PM #7
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Thanked: 3795
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01-21-2017, 06:23 PM #8
put your location in your profile so we may further assist you, there may be someone down the street from you Tc
“ I,m getting the impression that everyone thinks I have TIME to fix their bikes”
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01-21-2017, 05:59 PM #9
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Thanked: 3795I would not bother counting strokes. You have to keep honing till you have the bevel fully set. It might take a hundred strokes and it might take five hundred. The sharp edge is all that matters.
You can do x strokes, or chisel strokes, or circles or any combination as long as you finish with x strokes. If you are new to this you really should use tape so that you do not mess up the spine. If you use tape you will need to change it regularly when it wears and be aware that as the tape thins the honing angle changes with the result being that the edge lifts off of the hone. Fresh tape brings the edge back into contact.
This is a horrid video I did a while ago. It was a demonstration of setting the bevel on a razor using a FINISHING hone. This came about from a thread here and it certainly is not the normal or recommended way to set a bevel but it will give you some sense of the strokes involved when I set bevels. By all means don't watch the whole thing unless you are an insomniac but you can skip around and get a sense of how long it can take to set a bevel. In it I keep saying that it's almost there and then it's not. Delusion and optimism are helpful when honing but you can't actually move on from the bevel set until you have it right.
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The Following 5 Users Say Thank You to Utopian For This Useful Post:
ejmolitor37 (01-22-2017), Geezer (01-21-2017), Hirlau (01-21-2017), Marshal (01-22-2017), tinkersd (01-22-2017)
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01-22-2017, 07:59 AM #10
I can see a few bits on the bevel that are less than shiny. Is the bevel really set?
Plus ça change, plus c'est la même chose. Jean-Baptiste Alphonse Karr.