Thread: Center and toe not getting it..

If that photo was pre-edge correction, the razor is warped, and the wear pattern is reversed on the other side. The problem you are experiencing existed before, as there was not much of a bevel at the middle and heel.

The spine at the toe was ground, to try to get it flat on the stone.

The warp and the toe are keeping the heel off the stone on the stamp side. You will need to either, use a heel forward stroke with pressure on the heel, a finger. on the heel to contact the stone. Or hang the toe off the stone, about a 1/3 to half way so the heel makes contact and gets time on the stone. Do straight strokes and x strokes with the heel beginning in the middle of the stone to blend.

Make sure the edges of your stone are beveled or better yet evenly rounded with the lapping plate parallel to the edge, so you do not have any rough stria that will mar the bevels.

The other side will be the opposite and you will have to do a rolling X stroke to hone the heel and toe.

Yes, this is not honing you are still in the repair mode, until you can get it to cut a bevel on both sides. You might use a low grit stone 600-800 or diamond plate if you have one in 1k. Once you cut a bevel, remove the edge, on the corner of the stone and reset it on a 1k, as said. I use a 1k diamond plate for this kind of work.

You will need spot pressure were needed and gymnastics, lifting the heel and toe, on the other side to roll the X stroke, to get an even bevel.

Your bevels may be wonky but it will shave. As said use ink to see your progress.

Laying the blade on a stone will show you how much warp you have and how exaggerated your strokes will need to be. If it were slight, some finger pressure would do it. But I think you need a bit more.

I have done some warped razors where I had to hone them in 3 sections, then blend the bevel with an X stroke starting with one end of the razor off the stone.

Ink, lots of ink will quickly and easily show you when you are making progress. You might also ink the spine, without tape so you can see when the spine is making full contact on the different strokes, use a high grit stone 8 or 12k. then once you understand what you need to do, on each side, then tape the spine and go the low grit.

For me colored ink is easier to see.

Wow! Thanks so much Euclid I'm going to go slow and I'll give this instructions a go for sure. Thanks so much for the details. I'm taking a break honing kills my neck.

Thanks to those that gave advice, I finally got my Boker squared around. Ended up finding that the blade is in fact warped a bit toe does not contact on quite the opposite on the show side center of the blade is lifted. I tried a rolling x stroke and for what ever reason it was not working for me so I ended up getting out smaller stones and honing the blade in sections, toe & center, center & heel and then doing careful blend strokes the entire blade length. This worked and finally got a bevel and was able to get onto my finisher.
IMO the reason I was not able to get the rolling x to work is because of a heavy hand. I think with the shoulderless blade I was using to much pressure and fighting myself. I could be wrong but no matter what I did I could not get it to go. But, again thanks for the advice as always I appreciate it and always learn from you gents.

There is a difference between a warp and a twist.

Warped the blade is concaved on one side, convex on the other.

A blade can be both warped and/or twisted, and it does not take much to cause a problem where part or one end of the edge is off the stone. A blade can be both warped and twisted.

A twisted blade can be harder to hone, even with a rolling X stroke.

If you lay the razor on a flat surface, a stone or back of a diamond plate, study the razor and where it is makes contact, you will better understand how it will sit on the stone, and what it will take to get the edge on the stone so it can be honed. It does not take much of either to cause an issue.

Study the wear pattern on the spine, the bevel and if the razor was honed fully, to the edge prior. Especially heels and toes, I often find blades where toes and heels have never been fully honed.

A razor can tell you a lot, before you put it on the stones, about what it will take to hone the razor. Ink will accentuate those issues, when you do, put it on the stone.

Remember the opposite side can/will be completely… different. So, you have to look at both sides. And you will have to make the proper changes to hone the whole edge… on both sides, and may have to hone it in sections and blend the section in a rolling X stroke, using less than an inch of the edge of the stone.

On shoulderless blades you also have a flexing issue, so watch the pressure, flexing can affect how contact is made.

Experiment with torqueing, vs pressure, especially with shoulderless.