Thread: Favorite method to check bevel?

Originally Posted by Utopian

In my opinion, torquing is ideal and should be done.
I'm talking about how he described how if there is a region of the blade that is lagging behind the rest in getting an edge, he recommended and demonstrated pressing one finger down on the blade near the edge to increase the pressure of the edge on the hone.

Agreed. If part of the edge is lagging, placing a finger on that area ON THE SPINE will result in a tiny bit of pressure and extra torque. At least that's the way I do it.

Originally Posted by Utopian

In my opinion, torquing is ideal and should be done.
I'm talking about how he described how if there is a region of the blade that is lagging behind the rest in getting an edge, he recommended and demonstrated pressing one finger down on the blade near the edge to increase the pressure of the edge on the hone.

Yes that works, light pushes to the edge NOT the spine can absolutely pull the bevel even, but the idea of a "Push' is actually the wrong idea by simply resting a finger there it will add the needed compensation

I also love that somebody thinks this is some "New" method and put an actual name to it and is calling it the "Ax Method"...

I don't believe the pushing on pinpointing of pressure to the edge is the bases of Alex's Ax method I believe it's the simplicity of using a minimal amount of half strokes in a chopping motion like using an Ax, his stroke method is very different sliding across the blade and it a method I could not master it just felt awkward.

No, it is not the basis for it, but I still think it is a bad idea to try to overcome a slight flaw in the blade by using that localized pressure.

Originally Posted by Utopian

No, it is not the basis for it, but I still think it is a bad idea to try to overcome a slight flaw in the blade by using that localized pressure.

I tend to agree. What if there is a fault in the grind or a warp, are you then forced to always apply that pressure? Even at polishing stage. I don't see how it would correct the geometry so I'm assuming that's the case ?

Originally Posted by Marshal

Hehehe, this is why the highest magnification I use is around 100X. More often than not I only use 30x, and when I break out my carson it's set closer to 60X than 100X. Anything that I can't see at 100X likely won't effect the shave, and I'd hate to be chasing my tail going after minute non-problems. Agreed that at the end of the day the shave is what really matters.
....

Nice one unstated magnification trick is to look at a whisker or hair.
There is no need to dial the magnification to the point that the whisker
looks like a tree trunk.
A wrinkle smaller than a whisker can be ignored by all measures.
30x to 60x sounds about right..

In the end it is the shave test that decides. Images of a couple good shaving
razors might help to hone a bad shaver.

As I said, the Veho is in the junk drawer where it will stay. My 30x loupe is all that is needed, even it is more than enough. Good honing men.

I use a progression of tests. The important thing behind all tests is that you have to practice enough to understand what they tell you. If you're just beginning, practice, practice, practice.

First off is visual using a hand magnifier, probably 3-5x. As long as I can see that the bevel planes aren't meeting, there's no point in doing anything else but continue honing. At this point, you do have to learn to distinguish between a false edge and an unset bevel.

Once the bevels appear to meet, I'll use the cherry tomato test, and you do have to learn the signals it tells you - but basically the edge must effortlessly cut the skin without 'sawing' or lateral movement. You can use TNT, TPT, whatever, it's all good but you have to learn each of them. Not all thumbs, nails, cherry tomatoes, and hair are the same. Cherry tomatoes get 'leathery' and harder to cut when they begin to dry out. The downside to all these tests at the bevel set stage is that it is difficult to test the last few millimeters of the toe and heel, areas that are typically problem areas because of uneven wear, smiles, etc.

My next tests are at 5k. First off is another visual inspection of the apex. Sometimes 1-2k striae can cover up small imperfections that you can see at 5k polish. If eveything is a 'go' visually, I do a half stropping at the end of 5k honing, usually 10/20 and test using HHT. I'm not testing for a specific result with HHT at this stage, I'm looking for two things: one that the HHT is the same at the toe and heel as the middle, and the edge doesn't struggle to cut hair. I can also test the last millimeter of the edge because a hair is of course, very small. I like HHT at this stage, a razor is an instrument designed to do one thing, cut hair. If it won't, then I do a visual inspection - if it won't cut hair at this stage you can nearly always see why. Again though, you have to practice enough to learn what the test tells you.

That's my final bevel set test, a good, uniform, HHT everywhere along the edge at 5k. If it will do this, you're ready to finish and it won't take a lot.

Hope this helps a little.

Cheers, Steve