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Thread: ILR hone any tips?
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08-23-2017, 10:27 PM #1
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Thanked: 3795In that case, then I would recommend a Chinese hone from HERE. This is the larger one for $40 and the smaller one is $26.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Utopian For This Useful Post:
ejmolitor37 (08-23-2017)
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08-23-2017, 10:32 PM #2
Well I gave $30 for this thing I have. I'm going to remain optimistic it will/does work. I have a couple razors that going to 12k naniwa just doesn't seem to work so if my test shave proves good then I'll keep it for those
great suggestion btw I did look into that very stone a long time ago.
Nothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...
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08-23-2017, 08:22 PM #3
Utopian, my research was not only of this forum but several areas, I do agree the general consensus here was the seller not the stone. I see your point though. Also as far as I can see it doesn't auto slurry at all.
Gssixgun, it would be neat to know what this stone actually is!lol, but I don't I know what the box says which isn't much. I'm not a rock hound, but my guess by looking is slate of some sort.
Marshal, I did watch this video. Very informative, i can see why he was not thrilled with this hone. I simply have it as a trial and gateway into natural stones one day. If anything I'll use it for pocket knivesNothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...
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08-23-2017, 10:53 PM #4
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Thanked: 481It's been a while since I watched the video myself, so I can't recall everything Keith did to his test stone. But I found it intriguing that the stone had what seem to be invisible toxic inclusions that undid everything at the very edge of the blade. I'm sure any natural stone can have toxic inclusions, but it's nice when there's a visible difference between inclusion and good stone.
It looks like a type of slate to my eye too. Welsh slates are a favorite of mine so there's nothing wrong with that in my book and I would probably treat the stone the same as I do my Welsh hones. I'm sure you've already lapped it flat. I'd sand the scratches out cause I'm picky about my honing surfaces. Probably take it up to 2K sand paper. Every stone that I have at performed fairly well just polished to 2K so I'd venture to say that's far enough to test. If it passes you can always refine it more later or wait for it to take a natural burnish. Then do a standard finishing hone test. Get a blade up to 8K or 12K, whichever you prefer, test shave it to be sure it's good and ready to go. Then take pure water and do 25 to 50 laps, see what the natural rock gives you. If you like it, repeat until improvement stops. You could also keep an eye on the edge with a loupe and see where the stone levels out.
IF there is a problem, there's always the chance that it lies in your slurry stone and not the hone itself. Giving it a shot without slurry will tell you if the stone in the hone is good. You might also want to check both sides if it's feasible. My Phig is very different one side to the other, there's always a chance your ILR might have a 'use me' side and an 'avoid me' side.
All of my slates are pretty much that easy to use whether it's the vintage Yellow Lake or my Newer Black Welsh slate. In fact most of my naturals give a decent shaving edge treated exactly the same. The only difference in use is surface prep and the honing media. One side of my naturals is burnished, the other is kept roughed up with about 400 grit sandpaper. Gives me a slow/fine side and a faster cutting side that can be used with slurry. The burnished side is never lapped, unlike my synthetics which get scuffed as they load up and slow down. And I typically finish on a thin shave lather, though they all work OK with water. I just like that tiny bit of difference lather gives. I guess you could call it a cheap version of Smith's depending on your taste in shave soap.
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The Following User Says Thank You to Marshal For This Useful Post:
ejmolitor37 (08-23-2017)
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08-23-2017, 09:25 PM #5
That's fair enough Ron, I understand when a merchant is snippy I won't deal with them either. I bought this off eBay from a private seller. No ties to Original sales.
Nothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...
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08-23-2017, 09:51 PM #6
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Thanked: 3795I realize that I am not being helpful by commenting on the seller. As a minor penance, I will tell you that Randy (Randydance######--I've never bothered to remember the numbers that follow) has one so you could ask him for his opinion of it and advice about using one.
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08-23-2017, 09:55 PM #7
You are just fine Ron, I truly do see your point. I asked for thoughts and I am getting them, can't beat that. No harm in any of this. If Randydance doesn't chime in I'll holler at him and get some ideas. Just tried water and oil as suggested. Did this after my 5k and I'll have to wait to see the results for certain. Maybe it is just an after 5k stone
maybe not.
Nothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...
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08-23-2017, 09:56 PM #8
Hirlau I don't even care if what you said is true, it gave me a chuckle
most in depth faux history I have heard in awhile.
Nothing is fool proof, to a sufficiently talented fool...
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08-23-2017, 10:06 PM #9
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08-23-2017, 10:08 PM #10
it wont make a good pocketknife hone either, anything more than 1k grit is too much for a pocketknife,, maybe its a good paper weight! Tc
“ I,m getting the impression that everyone thinks I have TIME to fix their bikes”