Thread: ready to call it quits....

Originally Posted by Anthony416

I am in a similar position..................Dovo stainless. Trying with a Shapton 12k professional and pasted paddle (1 mircon paste). I did have this Dovo professionally honed when I bought it but it has pulled from the first time. I managed to get it a little better myself but still a long way to go........

Thanks
Anthony

I am unfamiliar with the Shapton 12K so I would suggest that you contact someone who uses them. Perhaps MParker?
If you are still up a creek then contact me.

Originally Posted by randydance062449

Be sure to lap the hone flat first. Then if the razor is still only showing wear at the ends then you can conclude that you have a warped blade. It should take no more than 1 1/2 hours to hone a razor to shaving sharp.

If your blade is slightly warped then the solution is to use an X pattern with a lot of focus on the portion of the blade that is coming off the bottom of the hone. A narrow hone also works well on warped blades. Xman has a rolling stroke that would also be effective.

I'm sorry, I used improper terminology, and I should clarify. The blade on my razor actually makes flat contact with the stone, it's the spine that doesn't sit flush. What should I do in that case?

Sometimes the edge is warped and sometimes it is the spine or both. The solution is the same as I mentioned.

I hope I answered your question.

If you have a webcam then we could have a video honing session if you wish.

Originally Posted by radiofree

Thanks Dave. I'll look into varying the way the razor moves on the hone.
-ryan

This seems to be a pretty critical point.

Randy is a great source of info - and I think the first thing that he mentioned was to lap the stones. That beginning point can't be overlooked. You just won't have any good results if the stone is not flat and the edges smoothed. Let us know how it goes!

Thanks for your suggestions. I just have one more question: what is this I keep reading about rounding the edges of the hone? Am I misreading this?

So...I'll need a 220 or 320grit and something flat, like plate glass or a marble floor tile...?

Yes, rounding the edges a bit (just a bit) protects them - less likely to chip

Glass plate is fine, I just bought a marble tile from Lowes because this was the easiest and fastest I could do.

Most people use higher grit after the rough stuff, too

Cheers
Ivo

Great, thanks.

So, what grit would you recommend for use on a Norton 4/8K?


after that, I'm off to the hardware store...
`

After 320 I'd go at least 600, maybe 800 too.

Some guys also use 1000. I have done it, but then decided it's too much hassle, plus I always finish on something finer than the 8K, so I decided I don't really need the 1000

Good luck
Ivo