Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12
Results 11 to 20 of 20
  1. #11
    Senior Member blabbermouth
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    St. Paul, MN, USA
    Posts
    2,401
    Thanked: 335

    Default

    A tile saw with a diamond blade and continuous water bath should cut a Norton easily. If these saws can cut ceramic or porcelain tile, concrete pavers, and real stone tile (which they can), slicing a Norton should be effortless for that type of machine. After all, the novaculite and coticule hones are cut with this type of saw. Norton may also use them to bring their stones to finished dimension. You may be able to cut them with a bandsaw, but I suspect the blade will be scrap before you're done and then you have all that abrasive dust to clean out of the machine (and your nose).

    good luck, Bruce

  2. #12
    Senior Citizen bth88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Mayor of North Park
    Posts
    184
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bruce View Post
    You may be able to cut them with a bandsaw, but I suspect the blade will be scrap before you're done and then you have all that abrasive dust to clean out of the machine (and your nose).

    good luck, Bruce
    Point well taken. Superfly (in that link) speaks of saving your time/money and going to a stone cutter. I would bet if you walked up with one of these and ask them to cut it for you, all you would have to do is give the guy a tip for the effort. It would take maybe 5 minutes with the right setup.

  3. #13
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
    Posts
    7,972
    Thanked: 2202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    I have cut up several barber hones, some pieces of a broken norton and a bunch of coticules with a bandsaw blade. Yes, the stones do wear them out fast but to cut just one Norton you would only need 1 blade. About $8 and takes maybe 3 minutes.
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  4. #14
    Senior Citizen bth88's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Mayor of North Park
    Posts
    184
    Thanked: 0

    Default

    Randy, If you say it's that fast I'm there. The blade on a ban saw would be the thinest and would keep the meat on the stone. I'm also thinking the wider blade of a circular saw would make for a little more unstable environment needing a little more patience and more room for error. A stone cutting wheel would be the way to go but it too is wider and you would need the setup to do it, for me I would have to take this to someone and have them do it for me.
    I'm wondering what the best blade would be to do it on a ban saw both for precision and cost effective?

  5. #15
    Heat it and beat it Bruno's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    Belgium
    Posts
    15,130
    Thanked: 5229
    Blog Entries
    10

    Default

    I haven't tried it, but I suspect a simple hacksaw would work pretty well if the stone is drenched with water.
    Nortons are fairly soft. Especially the 1K and 4K sides.
    Til shade is gone, til water is gone, Into the shadow with teeth bared, screaming defiance with the last breath.
    To spit in Sightblinder’s eye on the Last Day

  6. #16
    Senior Member Straight and loving it's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Near Lapeer Michigan
    Posts
    135
    Thanked: 1

    Default

    I was thinking about doing the same exact thing. Cut that sucker in half down the middle. In fact, I was thinking of taking it over to the business that just moved in behind my back yard. Its a monument (grave stone) maker. I'm sure it would be an easy and quick task and I doubt they would even consider charging me.

    If I decide to do it, I'll post my results.

  7. #17
    Still hasn't shut up PuFFaH's Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Poole, Dorset, UK
    Posts
    593
    Thanked: 44

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by JoshEarl View Post
    Has anyone tried a wetsaw for ceramic tile? I bought one of these for my remodeling project, and I'm curious as to whether it would work for hones.

    Josh
    I use a flat bed wet diamond wheel tile cutter for cutting my hones. Works a treat. This has cut Arkansas, Norton, Coticule, Thuringen and the H.......... stone I got off TM. Can never remember the dam name of that hone. The cut is about 2-3 mm (less than an 1/8" ) so the wastage is low and the cut is perfect true and smooth.

    PuFF
    Last edited by PuFFaH; 07-29-2007 at 08:28 PM.

  8. #18
    Razor Afficionado
    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Location
    Saskatchewan, Canada
    Posts
    878
    Thanked: 5

    Default

    i believe the word you are looking for is Hunsrueck

  9. #19
    Hones & Honing randydance062449's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Saint Paul, Minnesota, United States
    Posts
    7,972
    Thanked: 2202
    Blog Entries
    1

    Default

    I just used a El Cheapo metal cutting blade from a home improvement store. Nothing special.
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin

  10. #20
    Senior Member Howard's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2005
    Location
    Massachusetts
    Posts
    686
    Thanked: 118

    Default Diamond blade

    Use a diamond blade for cutting Nortons or other whetstones. I have a lapidary saw that is used wet and I get good clean cuts with it. I also have a diamond blade for my RotoZip and I use that as well but it's used dry. I've cut granite and marble with it as well with no problem. Be absolutely sure to use a good dust mask and safety glasses when you do this! You risk silicosis by breathing in whetstone dust and that ain't pretty. BTW, I don't use those white paper masks as I don't think they do the job very well and my lungs are one of my favorite organs. I use a full lexan face mask with two dust filters. They cost about $100 and Grainger carries them. I use a full face mask because I've had stuff go in my eyes past safety glasses and a plastic face shield. Stuff bounces up under the shield and gets around the safety glasses. After having that happen several times I spoke with an Industrial Safety Expert who works for a major industrial firm and he told me to stop fooling around with cheap masks and goggles. I took his advice and haven't regretted it. I know some folks just use safety goggles but I happen to like the rest of my face as well!

Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 12

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •