Thread: Dipping my toes into naturals. Thanks to JP5

I spent 3 hours starting from 120 grit W/D paper and worked my way up to 800 grit W/D paper. The side I did this too has a glossy finish when I hold it up to a light and look at reflections off the stone. I then went backward (I found out) and started with a thick oil and working to thin. It gave a nice edge but not as keen as I thought it should have been. I asked some questions and found that I needed to start thin and work to thick. After rehoning the razor on the arkie with the proper order of oil thickness I got a keen edge that was almost as keen as my 12K stone gives (If I had to put a number to it id say 8K+) but felt more comfortable like as if it couldn't cut me. Scary thought, as you know it can!

So I'm now learning a bit more about this stone and its giving a nice edge without a lot of crazy learning of the stone. BTW, I used Balistol and water mainly. But finishing on Neetsfoot oil. Just what I had handy. I might try the WD-40 to start with next time.

Gasman, I’m confused. In all my reading on Arkansas stones, I’ve never read anything about varying thicknesses of oil. I’ve read about people using either mineral oil, WD-40, kerosene, etc., but not going from thin to thick. Please elucidate and educated.

My uderstanding is, starting with thin oils will allow the stone to cut/polish harder. Then when you work with thicker oils it put the slightest buffer between the stone and steel, inturn with your light touch it give it even a lighter touch to the stone. Refines the edge just a little more.

Now im no pro honer, its just info ive collected and have be using on natural stones. I wouldnt be using soap or oil on synthetic stones so please dont make that mistake. Ive read of dish soap and even windex being used.

Sure. I have done this. With smiths, ballistol, or any other water soluble oil you can vary the viscosity which will affect how the stone cuts. I have started with plain water on my black Arkansas and slowly added ballistol with great results.

Originally Posted by Gasman

I spent 3 hours starting from 120 grit W/D paper and worked my way up to 800 grit W/D paper. The side I did this too has a glossy finish when I hold it up to a light and look at reflections off the stone. I then went backward (I found out) and started with a thick oil and working to thin. It gave a nice edge but not as keen as I thought it should have been. I asked some questions and found that I needed to start thin and work to thick. After rehoning the razor on the arkie with the proper order of oil thickness I got a keen edge that was almost as keen as my 12K stone gives (If I had to put a number to it id say 8K+) but felt more comfortable like as if it couldn't cut me. Scary thought, as you know it can!

So I'm now learning a bit more about this stone and its giving a nice edge without a lot of crazy learning of the stone. BTW, I used Balistol and water mainly. But finishing on Neetsfoot oil. Just what I had handy. I might try the WD-40 to start with next time.

The more you use your Arkansas stone, the more you will burnish it. As you burnish them, they become better finishers. I have been using a 12k naniwa super stone BEFORE my black Arkansas and the surgical black has improved the edge,without fail, every time so far.

Have you tried reversing the order and following the Arkansas with the Naniwa?

Originally Posted by ace

Have you tried reversing the order and following the Arkansas with the Naniwa?

No sir! That, my friend, is on the agenda this morning. About to shave with that order now and will report back.

So, per our conversation yesterday Ace, I tried the 12k after the Arkansas just now. I wasn’t very hopeful only because the HHT clearly showed a difference in favor of the Arkansas. The shave test revealed the same. Not as effective or smooth. Not to say it was a bad shave. It wasn’t. It was a great shave. Just not as close and slight irritation. Both edges were shave ready.

To be honest though, as everyone here knows, I don’t have a lot of experience with synthetics and have used Arkansas stones exclusively on razors for a few years now. So there is that-along with the fact that because of this my Arkansas stone has seen hundreds of razors and thousands of laps making it highly burnished. At any rate, for me and my stone, there is a noticeable difference in feel and results with the edge given to the Black Arkansas. (Puns all over the place here)

Where that 12k shines for me though is the speed! It is an amazing stone that gets me 95% there in minimal strokes. Plus the bevel is a mirror! With minimal effort on the Arkansas I then have a wonderfully sharp and smooth edge.

Now on to a Gokumyo 20k edge but I will have to post in a different thread as I have maybe derailed the focus here a bit.

Thanks for doing that test and reporting Steel. Great info. I jeed to use my Arkansas stone more, but its so hard to do when i got the 20k and know its going to rock and edge without lots of effort. Will be looking for your next post with the 20k.

Just had my shave with a Hollow W&B. My favorite grind and size. It had been finished on the Trans Arkie. The shave was keen, but still not as keen as the 20K edges I've been getting. With my standard shaving steps, I still came out clean and comfortable. Put the Alum to use and it was just like my standard shave. Nothing different in the outcome of the shave but, Just didn't feel as keen. I think that the Arkie does a fine job and its just a FEEL that is different. Maybe after I've had a couple dozen more blades across the stone, it will burnish more and get a bit finer of an edge.

I'm in no way saying that the Arkie is not doing its job. It was just more work getting there. And to a person like me that just don't know when to stop honing, this isn't a bad thing. I'm still leaning towards the 20K. For now!