Thread: Newbie Q: can't get razor sharp enough

As said it does appear the edge is not fully developed, the goal is to get the edge as chip free and straight as possible. Looking at the edge, straight down on the edge will show you where/if the bevels are not meeting.

Looking at a bevel from the side, will show you where you may not be honing to the edge, if deep 1k stria or previous grit stira has not been removed and may end in a chip at the edge or if you have chips or crumbling edges, but they will not show you if the bevels are meeting, fully. And if they are not meeting, you don’t have an edge.

A 12k super stone can finish an edge well and is a much more versatile stone than most use it for. But tends to load up easily, which for a finisher can be frustrating. A swarf loaded stone can undo what you are attempting to do with that stone, which is to perfect the edge.

It is simply a matter of removing the swarf from the stone face with a scotch brite pad, a rubbing stone, nagura or a diamond plate. When using a 12k super stone, I first remove the previous grit’s stria, then resurface the stone face a few quick laps with a diamond plate, then do finish laps on a clean stone. A 12k edge stropped on chrome oxide will give you a smoking shaving edge.

Take an edge pic as shown in the Second Try at Honing thread and you will see where the bevels are not meeting,(the shiny spots). I think you are very close, nice even stria on the bevel, just probably need a bit more to get them to meet, the 12k should easily do that.

Comparing to a feather edge is not helpful, as those edges are coated, and that is a completely different process. Compare to the edges and bevels in the recommended post.

Nice pics, which USB scope did you buy?

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Nice pics, which USB scope did you buy?

Thanks Euclid440. I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06WD843ZM It's ok for the price, but the stand is not good.

I have an old one with a similar stand. I shimmed the clamp with a thin 1/8 in piece of foam, cardboard would work, where the clamp attaches to the scope body to make that contact tight and lightly sanded the balls on the swivel to get a better grip.

Once you set it to the desired angle you will not need to move it much.

I also made a mat with black ¼ in black craft foam, 2 bucks at Wally mart and glued a strip on one edge to make a raised ledge to rest the razor on so the bevel is parallel to the lens. I lay the razor with the handle open, so the scales are 90 degrees to the spine and hanging off the edge of the pad to hold the razor in place. This puts the razor in the right angle for my set up.

Move the camera, not the razor, I have seen where guys have glued magnetic sheet to the pad, so it does not move. I weigh the scope base down with my keyboard.

I was going to make a larger base from MDF for the weight, but have used the keyboard for years now…

Mine looks identical to yours, if so there are 2 magnifications, low and high power. If you run the focus knob all the way in the opposite direction you will switch to high magnification, mine is supposed to be 60X and 400X once you switch to high you have to sneak up on focus.

Been wanting to buy a new scope, I have dropped mine several times and alignment is a bit wonky and photo are not as clear as newer ones.

Once you get that edge nice and straight and all the stria is only from the 12k, watch this video from Glen (gssixgun) at about the 11:30 mark he talks about how to finish on the norton 8k, this technique works extremely well with 12k ss as well. It also looks like the same technique Euclid is talking about.