Thread: Kitchen knives...

I can agree with mechanical for the pro, or one that's sharpening large quantities. I prefer to hone by hand because I know my edges are true. What I mean by that is, if u put the edge on a flat surface and rolled it from heel to toe, you'd always be making contact with the cutting surface, showing no light indicating frowns or high spots in the blade.

I see these irregularities with almost every mechanical, and commercially sharpened blade. But never from a hone, always straight and true.

The machine guys don't have a monopoly on hacks. Lol. I've seen lots of hand honed razors that were lovingly butchered. Same thing here. I don't think it is reasonable to expect someone to nail a method the first time out. That's by hand or machine. You guys have seen guys first razor hone. But time goes on and they learn. Just like anyone can learn to use a paper wheel. No need to. But to say it's not viable is false.

Originally Posted by bluesman7

On the other hand, I do often go out to the shop to sharpen a pencil on a belt when I need a really sharp point.

What grit belt do you use?

Do you vary the belts depending on the hardness of the pencil?

I personally hand sharpen my pencils on 1000 grit for lead hardness testing.

Originally Posted by kelbro

I've usually seen 1500rpm or lower recommended.

1500 makes more sense. Look at Bill's video link . The guy says 3400.

Originally Posted by biglou13

my personal japanese knives, will never ever see anything mechanical.

but i like the idea paper wheel it sounds less invasive destructive vs a grinder or belt sander

Horses for courses. Once a Jp knife is set up it's easy to maintain on a stone but the paper wheels are intriguing as are leather ones as per the Tormek.
I always see belts & grinders as a convenience when speed or bulk metal removal is needed e.g. setting up a dozen broadheads that won't cut butter.
I think batch processing a number of cutting tools would see me looking into a Tormek or similar.

There are videos showing how to make a wheel out of scrap mdf. Easy way to find out for nothing!

Here it is. Not mine nor affiliation.
https://youtu.be/jDKaFB5kX0M

Originally Posted by 32t

What grit belt do you use?

Do you vary the belts depending on the hardness of the pencil?

I personally hand sharpen my pencils on 1000 grit for lead hardness testing.

I also strop mine. Horsehide only.

Just grabbed a couple Miyabi JP knives and figured I’d read this thread, and resurrect it while I’m at it.
Blades are a crazy 63 Rockwell so I’m not looking forward to honing them, down the line and I’ll need to research that Honbazuke or whatever they call it honing style as it seems a multi angled edge to start with.
I have a jig that grabs the blade and the stones run on a rod that I use for my regular blades, so wonder if the mfgr’s Diamond hone would be a good upgrade to actually bite into this hard stuff. Currently all I have are the stone hones that come with the kit.
See that miyabi sell a pull through two stage sharpener they claim will cut steels up to a 67 hardness, but never liked those pull through gizmos historically so I’m dubious.
So for those still reading this thread, what do you do on the extra hard steels?
Cheers.

Edge Craft diamond file set.


I have one of those sets you mentioned with the guide rods also but I always seem to come back to the hand held hones. I guess I'm old school like that.