Thread: SOS Need some help.

Oz speaks the truth. A razor cannot be condemned until an honest effort has been put forward.
In my case, corrections come in as last-ditch techniques.
Light corrections solve most problems, I have found.
Yet it takes experience and time to accomplish.

Many times, the value of the razor should be considered.
Might not be worth the effort, said and done.

Some cannot even be fixed.
Most of the time, it was a previous honer attempting to fix all at once who had ruined it. JMO.

Idk I wasn't trying to correct the geometry of the blade using half strokes. I didn't even really think there was a warp till earlier today when I posted this. It's funny cause when I honed this razor a few days ago I messaged him telling about my sub-par edge and he told me to use tape and do some very light finishing strokes on the 12k. So had I just took his advice I would at least not have a frowning blade. Or maybe the blade was always frowning and I just never bothered to check on something flat. It isn't like a gaping frown so not something I would have caught with my naked eye. Just thought I should clarify that it wasn't him that told me to use pressure. I did that on my own, again showing the razor who's boss thing. lol

Well, it's best to save the problem ones until there is a pile of better ones under your belt.
Learning how the good stuff feels along the way gives you something to shoot for.
That begins the process of correction.
I am still pulling them back out!

Agreed, I have a Henckels 72 1/2 that I bought from sqzbxr about a year ago. And that edge is basically perfect to me. So that has been my 'control' razor since I got it. And then recently I sent my wade out to get a coticule edge put it and that one is also a treat to use. And the Dovo I honed last week on the Jnat definitely stacks up just maybe not quite as keen. So I know I'm on the right track, this particular razor is just really hard, and is like the problem razor in my bunch.

Well, I hope you can progress faster than I, but things learned are piling-up.
Doing the right thing for the particular razor is my quest.
But then, I am lazy and patient!

Life takes over sometimes and you get pulled away from your hobbies. But I imagine as I get older life will slow down, however lately seems to be always getting more busy. I'm only 29 though so guess I got a few more years till I can really chill.

Oh yeah! At 29 I seemed to have more time, even with 3 kids.

You have to take your time.
My problem is remembering where I was when life interrupted me!

if you dont want to destroy your razors dont listen to drmatt. his methods are far from good advise. but your 29 after another 29 you,ll figure it out that just cause you can make a video doesnt make you competent,, i mean i can make a video on building spacestations, but that dont mean itll get off the ground.. from here on out now you know to stop long before you grind away. and tape is your friend.

there are some who wish to sing drmatts praise, but he really does grind alot of metal off razors without thinking. and before any of you fans,(which there are not many) start up with your crap, i have better experience than that guy does, yet i aint going around making videos for my ego and turning good razors into RSO. and i have said it when drmatt was around here on the forum. not to mention his fans send their razors to more respected hone guys,,, so whats up with that. Tc

If you lay the blade on a flat stone, you will see that it does not lay flat and the four corners at the heel and spine do not all touch the stone, One or tow corners will be off the stone. The warp may not be much, it does not take much to keep the edge off the stone. Check both sides, they will be opposites.

Once you get the frown sorted, it is just a matter of light X strokes rolling up on the concave side and rolling down on the convex side. You will never have even bevels and they will be opposite from side to side but can shave perfectly well.

Do not grind the spine to try to “straighten” the razor, you don’t need to. Yes. that technique can flatten a razor, but it is drastic, irreversible and not necessary.

It is a matter of light pressure and removing the previous grits stria. The bevel on the heel of the concave side will be thin but that is ok, as long as the edge is straight.

Use tape, you needlessly ground the spine and have removed a 1/16 to a 1/8th from the spine. Once you master honing, then decide if you want to continue to use tape.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

If you lay the blade on a flat stone, you will see that it does not lay flat and the four corners at the heel and spine do not all touch the stone, One or tow corners will be off the stone. The warp may not be much, it does not take much to keep the edge off the stone. Check both sides, they will be opposites.

Once you get the frown sorted, it is just a matter of light X strokes rolling up on the concave side and rolling down on the convex side. You will never have even bevels and they will be opposite from side to side but can shave perfectly well.

Do not grind the spine to try to “straighten” the razor, you don’t need to. Yes. that technique can flatten a razor, but it is drastic, irreversible and not necessary.

It is a matter of light pressure and removing the previous grits stria. The bevel on the heel of the concave side will be thin but that is ok, as long as the edge is straight.

Use tape, you needlessly ground the spine and have removed a 1/16 to a 1/8th from the spine. Once you master honing, then decide if you want to continue to use tape.

Exactly.

Bob