Thread: SOS Need some help.

Thank you for the reply's guys. I completely understand why you wouldn't like his methods. But he's a good guy, and great to talk to. But this post was about a frowning razor, not another persons method. I got the idea for half strokes from watching his video, and the pressure was from frustration. I just don't want people thinking that it was Dr Matt that told me to use to pressure. Cause again he told me to do the exact opposite.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

Once you get the frown sorted, it is just a matter of light X strokes rolling up on the concave side and rolling down on the convex side. You will never have even bevels and they will be opposite from side to side but can shave perfectly well.

Could you elaborate a bit on the subject?
Why do you have to roll up on the concave and down on the convex? I would have imagined it was the other way around.
Thanks!

Originally Posted by Eurofighter

Could you elaborate a bit on the subject?
Why do you have to roll up on the concave and down on the convex? I would have imagined it was the other way around.
Thanks!

If you have a good smooth chamfer on the side of your stone all you have to do is keep contact on the spine & edge . Essentially you are honing on a very small portion of the hone. As long as the toe is off the stone a little it doesn't matter too much if you rock or roll.

“Could you elaborate a bit on the subject?
Why do you have to roll up on the concave and down on the convex? I would have imagined it was the other way around”

I did not explain that well, If the convex side (hump) is up, facing you, the concave side (cave) is down on the stone. Yes, you want to go down and the reverse for the convex side on the stone. But on the concave side, the heel has to come off the stone to allow the middle to touch the stone. That alone is usually enough to make the middle touch the stone.

Now the amount of warp is very slight, usually. It is not something you can see, except by laying the blade on a flat surface, a few thousands, but enough to keep part of the blade off the stone.

So, the amount of drop or lift is very, slight. You almost just have to think about it and your hands will do it. Really it is just a pressure shift.

I visualize a marble rolling along the bevel from the heel to the toe, where the razor is moving and you try to keep the ball stationary, (pressure) to within one inch of the edge of the stone. That is the part of the stone you are working, just the edge, not the middle as in a straight stroke.

Here Sharpie ink will help you greatly to quickly show you where you are contacting the stone, without have to stop and look at it with magnification.

Avoid the temptation to use excessive pressure, to get a smooth bevel and as said make sure the corner of the stone is well beveled or rounded or the sharp corner of the stone can drag on the bevel and undo your honing.

Seems the cure to some is to do a rolling-x on one side and drag the other off the side of the hone. IMO, this may work to a degree, but I had rather attempt to sort out the geometry if I can. Otherwise, I deem them wind-chimes!

A lot of good info has been given. Correcting the smile with a bigh angle on a dmt should be the first thing to do at this point. Then to rehone properly with ths X stroke. Dont grind the spine to correct a warp. That is a dr. Matt fix. Wrong! Not saying you are doing this but he is know for this.

Use tape on the spine while doing the rolling X and you will get a smile honed. But start with correcting what you have done. But dont tame away any more than needed. The edge should follow the spine.

Well for anyone following, I have decided to save the razor and let someone with more experience sort it out for me. So I say thank you JFK742 for you kindness, and willingness to help me out.