Thread: Overhoning

“The good news is if you get a good bevel set, but there is still a tiny bit of the ding left, maybe it will shave okay. Chips and dings sometimes can be tolerated and do not interfere with getting a decent shave, if they are not too big.”

No, a chip will cut you, a micro chip will cut you.

All of the edge must be removed to the depth of the bottom of the chip, and possibly a bit more to get to good steel.

Removing a chip is not honing, it is a repair, first remove the chip, then honing it.

Lap your stone with a Diamond Plate, Chef Knives to Go sells a nice 400/1000 grit plate for $30 that will lap stones, sharpen knives and tools and make repairs like this chip removal easily.

Originally Posted by Euclid440

“The good news is if you get a good bevel set, but there is still a tiny bit of the ding left, maybe it will shave okay. Chips and dings sometimes can be tolerated and do not interfere with getting a decent shave, if they are not too big.”

No, a chip will cut you, a micro chip will cut you.

All of the edge must be removed to the depth of the bottom of the chip, and possibly a bit more to get to good steel.

Removing a chip is not honing, it is a repair, first remove the chip, then honing it.

Lap your stone with a Diamond Plate, Chef Knives to Go sells a nice 400/1000 grit plate for $30 that will lap stones, sharpen knives and tools and make repairs like this chip removal easily.

My face is proof that this is not necessarily so. Of course the chip should be removed. But often if it is not, it is not the end of the world. The bigger it is, the more likely it is to cut, and the more important it is to remove it, generally speaking. The bigger it is, the less likely it is that a beginner on his first razor will remove it successfully and completely. This is real world stuff and not theory. The guy wants to shave with his razor. He should send it to someone more experienced for honing. We don't always do what we should. Fact.

Originally Posted by Herakles

Thank you RezDog. I’m sending it tomorrow for a professional job. I would like to learn how to keep the blade sharp on my own now and do more difficult stuff later as I get competent at the basics. That’s where my head is now.

I didn’t know anything about having to lap a new stone. The DVD I used did not mention anything about that. I started out with 20 small circles as the guy said, until the “edge was perfect.” I must’ve done 10 or more sets of circles, alternating sides, and the “perfect edge” never happened. It just didn’t get better. I got exhausted and just started regular honing per further instructions. Well, you know the rest of the story. I did give it a shot. Now a pro can have a shot. In the mean time would you recommend a good DVD series? The guy who did the one I used is Lynn Abrams from The Straight Razor Place, a site that’s no longer exists I believe.

Thank you and everyone else for their advice.

That's the smart way.

Originally Posted by CrescentCityRazors

A repair like that, start with 600 or 400 grit.

For a new honer, not using tape and whom is clearly not honing to the edge using an aggressive low grit hone is a sure fast way to grinding down the spine, compounding the problem and frustrating the honer.

Originally Posted by markbignosekelly

For a new honer, not using tape and whom is clearly not honing to the edge using an aggressive low grit hone is a sure fast way to grinding down the spine, compounding the problem and frustrating the honer.

Quite right. He obviously was sending too much of his honing pressure to the spine and not enough to the edge. I could have wrote half a book on all the perceived flaws in this, his first attempt at honing, but I didn't. I pointed out one, which was trying to do edge repair with a stone not up to the task. Most of the others have been covered in other posts by other members. If I had intended to write a complete tutorial on how to fix this razor I would have taken a lot more time and wrote a lot more, and much of what I would have written would have essentially been simply repeating what was already written by others. Nevertheless, one shouldn't expect timely results when honing a fairly large ding or chip out of a razor with a 4k stone. Something coarser than the typical 1k bevel setter is IMHO the way to go. Fixing that edge on a 4k is possible, yeah, but really, who has the patience? And that would be a lot of wear on the stone that could have been done on a coarser, faster, cheaper stone. Or sandpaper. Or even 60u film.

Yup, a 1k would be better, especially for a new honer, but a 4k is more than up to the task. It is not that large of a chip.

Here is an old post where I removed some larger chipage, with a Naniwa 12k Super Stone and set the bevel, in about 80 circles and 206 half laps.

I’m not recommending a 12k for bevel setting, but synthetics are way more aggressive than most folks think. You fight with the Army you have. Back In the day, guys had a rough stone, a fine stone and a strop.

I often bevel set razors on a 4k, and usually an 8k Snow White for refresh.

12K Super Stone Chip Removal/Bevel Set

Regarding your remarks about the shot glass and teaspoon: Don’t sugarcoat it like that. Really.

Originally Posted by Herakles

Regarding your remarks about the shot glass and teaspoon: Don’t sugarcoat it like that. Really.

LOL! Sorry. Anyway I think you got the gist of it and fingers crossed you get it back ready to shave with.

Some reading & viewing that may be of interest.

https://shavelibrary.com/w/Hone_Lapping_101

https://sharprazorpalace.com/advance...ir-tricks.html

Herakles, let us know how you like the new edge on your Dovo when it returns. You may find you like it better than the original edge.