Thread: ?? re: Killing the edge

Is it useful to kill an edge...say by passing the edge along a thumbnail...at the final
finishing stage of honing? Or is that a technique properly reserved for an earlier
bevel setting stage?

Also, would stropping on chromium oxide accomplish much the same result?

Paul

Yes, No, Maybe

Most razors you don't need too, some razors are quite determined to give you the "Sparkles" at the very fin of the edge.

TI, Wacker, Revisor, are notorious for this, in this case the use of a LIGHT touch TNT is invaluable to making sure you ened up with a nice comfortable edge

Remember TNT then a few more laps, and recheck the edge, few more laps recheck, this makes sure you get a clean even comfortable edge on the face.

If you tend to finish on hones with a light slurry you will notice that a case of the Sparkels is rare

Thank you, Glen.

I'll try finishing with a light slurry, too, and see how that works.

Paul

Originally Posted by gssixgun

Yes, No, Maybe

Most razors you don't need too, some razors are quite determined to give you the "Sparkles" at the very fin of the edge.

TI, Wacker, Revisor, are notorious for this, in this case the use of a LIGHT touch TNT is invaluable to making sure you ened up with a nice comfortable edge

Remember TNT then a few more laps, and recheck the edge, few more laps recheck, this makes sure you get a clean even comfortable edge on the face.

If you tend to finish on hones with a light slurry you will notice that a case of the Sparkels is rare

Okay Glen you have me at a disadvantage. What is the acronym TNT stand for. I know is not dynamite in this case....

TNT = Thumb nail test

Originally Posted by PaulKidd

Is it useful to kill an edge...say by passing the edge along a thumbnail...at the final
finishing stage of honing? Or is that a technique properly reserved for an earlier
bevel setting stage?

Also, would stropping on chromium oxide accomplish much the same result?

Paul

I never do that at any stage, finish, bevel, anything in between. Yes, it will work, if done properly, and I understand the reasoning behind doing this at the finish, but I find a combination of pull strokes and short, very light x strokes works just fine for leaving a nice clean edge.

I don't use CrOx, either. I do use a three stage diamond paste progression, on lapped and stabilized balsa, but for the sharpness, not to clear the edge left by the finish stone or film.

I always joint the edge before the final hone and before the final laps.

As you hone through a progression, you will develop a burr or fin on the edge. If the razor is vintage, had issues, chips, deep random stria on the bevel or needed edge reprofiling, those issues will cause a microscopic burr to form and make an uneven edge.

I cut them off, by jointing on the corner of the stone. One lite stroke on the corner will cut off any burr and leave a straight edge.

The bevels are already flat and in the proper plane, so getting them to meet again is a simple process of 10-15 laps. I then strop the blade on linen, I use flax firehose, to remove any micro flashing from the corners of edge.

This little extra step that takes literally a minute, ensures that the edge is straight and clean. I then do the required finish laps on a clean straight edge.

If you Kill the edge on a fingernail, or glass you roll the edge or rip it off. If you cut into the fingernail, you may straighten the edge flashing sides, by pulling it through the two pieces of fingernail. Much like pulling a piece of paper between thumb and forefinger. It will straighten the fin from the sides, but not the edge. It may also microscopically rip pieces of the burr from the edge.

It is more effective to cut the edge off microscopically, then just get the bevels to meet again, at the already straight edge.

The goal of a keen, comfortable shaving edge is making the edge as straight as possible. So, make the edge straight first.

I do the TNT or joint the edge most in restoration honing. It is great for keeping the edge developing together, straightening the edge, and chippy edges at the bevel set. I do not often use it at the finish stage, but as previously mentioned there are times that it is handy. I’m not sure if I’ve ever used it on a refresh or a previously established bevel. I do not hone a lot anymore.

To an extent, stropping on paste will straighten the sides of the edge and the abrasives will cut/polish some of the flashing off, but it does not straighten an uneven edge.

It will/can make the stria smaller and make the edge straighter in that respect but cannot compensate for lost steel ripped out by honing.

Stropping on linen prior to finish laps will remove flashing and make a stronger edge also, paste is more aggressive.

Joint an edge with a very lite stroke on a high grit stone. Now look straight down on the edge with magnification, more is better. Any dark spots are chips or spots where honing has ripped out parts of the edge. Those divots were much deeper before you jointed the edge. Would your final laps have removed them?

Jointing at the final laps ensures that they are removed.

I use TNT in the begginning but not past 3k. I will do what Marty sad when finishing to make for a better edge. And it does work!