Thread: DMT Breakthrough!

I've been str8 razor shaving and attempting to become decent at honing my own razors for about six months now. I would say I have been fairly successful at honing. I have at times struggled with difficult razors for one reason or another, mostly from my newness and inexperience to honing. I would like to share with you something that has happened with me in regard to my honing skills:

I have in my honing arsenal: a DMT #D8C, 3x8, for lapping, DMT #W6EP, 2x6, for bevels, a 3x8 Coticule, a 3x8 Blue Belgium, a 2x8 Mueller Thuringen, and a 2x6 MST Thuringen, and a .5 CRO2 paddle strop.

I recieved a Puma, 4/8, on an Ebay auction. Unfortunately, it had a very large chip at the toe (convieniently not pictured in the auction pictures). - otherwise, in very good condition (paid $42.00). I got out the 1200 DMT and started working on getting out the chip(yes,I taped the spine). It wasn't going well, or fast enough for me. I looked over at my DMT 325 continuous that I have used only for lapping, and thought, "Why not! What have I got to loose". I started on the 325, and very soon I had worked out the chip, and under the scope, the bevel was GREAT. I went to the 1200 DMT and started with a series of very, very light X patterns. Took it to the scope, and WOW, the bevel was very dark with little to no light on the edge. I then did X's on the Coticule and the Mueller Thurengen till I was very happy of what I saw in the microscope(and, yes,I now leave the tape on throughout the entire honing prceedure). Stropped it 100 times and got, perhaps, the best shave of my str8 razor life(and I have been getting great shaves)! BTW, I have discontinued using slurry on all of my hones. I have found it doesn't seem to help my edge any, if anything, the edge seems to deterioate with this process.

Since then, when I have an old Ebay or even an old razor that I want to clean up from past honing efforts, or a new blade, I go straight to the 325, then to the 1200, and now I hardly use the 4K Blue Belgium anymore, or the Coticule, - I go straight to polishing on the Mueller Thuringen for the finial polishing phase. I have been incredably successful my last 12 or so razors by using this method. My shaves have been more than exemplary - each one is better than I could ever imagine. I can't seem to find the words to describle how incredable the edges on my razors are, and how unbelievable the shaves have been.

The new formula: 325 DMT + 1200 DMT + Mueller Thurengen. Yes, there are some variables in there, but if I have an old bevel that isn't polishing up well, or an edge that I just can't seem to darken the sparkles of light on, I go right to the 325, and it's just downhill and easy from there.

My entire world of honing has opened up and changed, for the better. Honing has become easy, quick, and a real joy. I know there will be those of you who will critisize this for going against SOP(standard operating proceedures), but, I'll tell ya, this is really, really, working for me!!!!

NOTE: I would like to thank Josh Earl for showing me that it's okey to try different things, even though it may not be "an accepted way in the opinion of the experts". "Josh, you are my hero, and I thank you!"

Thanks, and Best Regards,

Steve Boyd

I love my DMT D8C for setting a new bevel. Anytime I get an Ebite razor with any kind of damage or a ground off edge (got one that way) I hit the 320 DMT, 1200, 4k/8k, 1.0/0.5 pasted paddle, and strop for effect. Not been disapointed sence.

Steve, I too have seen the magic of the DMTs. Have a continuous 325 and 1200 (just received) can't wait to try out your progression. I also have a Belgian Blue and Yellow and after spending quite some time speaking with Josh have figured out (maybe) a good way to utilize my entire arsenal to produce a great edge.

Thank you for continuing the experimentation, you give the rest of us hope and encouragement.

BTB (by the by), I forgot to mention, I never have a problem with wire edges or microchipping with this process.. also, pyramids are becoming a thing of the past with me. Once that bevel is dark,and the edge is relatively dark, and straight, one polishing routine on the thuringen is it. No more struggling. If pyramids are necessary, then I know I haven't spent enough time on the DMTs.

Steve

Howard from theperfectedge.com told me that if you have to spend more than 10 min on a particular stone to get results, then you are not using a course enough stone. I can't say that a DMT 1200 was ever not course enough for me though.

I am glad to hear that you are finding success!

Having said this, I also think that 320 is too coarse. I don't even own one. I usually do all my low level work on 1200. I have tried 600 and this has been too coarse for me so I don't seem to use it save for lapping.

Cheers
Ivo

Originally Posted by izlat

I am glad to hear that you are finding success!

Having said this, I also think that 320 is too coarse. I don't even own one. I usually do all my low level work on 1200. I have tried 600 and this has been too coarse for me so I don't seem to use it save for lapping.

Cheers
Ivo

Ivo,

Logic would dictate here, and I would normally agree with you. Perhaps my ignorance was the key in my using the DMT 325 in this instance. Either way, the venture was most succesfull! I am only guessing that perpaps there is something about the properties of the DMT that has made this possible.

Is it probable that a 325 in a natural or a synthetic stone is too coarse to set a bevel, where as, the DMT is allright? I would have to say so, IMO.

Regards,

Steve

Originally Posted by zepplin

Ivo,

Logic would dictate here, and I would normally agree with you. Perhaps my ignorance was the key in my using the DMT 325 in this instance. Either way, the venture was most succesfull! I am only guessing that perpaps there is something about the properties of the DMT that has made this possible.

Is it probable that a 325 in a natural or a synthetic stone is too coarse to set a bevel, where as, the DMT is allright? I would have to say so, IMO.

Regards,

Steve

I think the case against it has to do with something called "metal fatigue," which I don't fully understand. I think the idea is that you might end up with a good sharp edge, which may however be weak, more prone to microchipping later on, etc. The way a paper clip that's been bent and then bent back will be easier to break.

But while metal fatigue itself is a fact, I have no idea if it's a solid fact or just a hunch among several honemeisters that a coarse hone will cause it. Randy for one is quite set against going lower than 1000, but you're not the first to have good results with it. I think I remember reading that Joe Chandler will sometimes start an ebay-razor on 600 grit sandpaper.

It would be nice if one of the guys here who knows steel inside out – Papa Bull? – would weigh in on this.

If it works, I won't argue. Give feed back on the long term condition of the edge though please.

PuFF

Originally Posted by zepplin

Is it probable that a 325 in a natural or a synthetic stone is too coarse to set a bevel, where as, the DMT is allright? I would have to say so, IMO.

Regards,

Steve

You are not setting a bevel on a straight razor with a DMTC; you are just removing metal very quickly. 1000 grit is also a metal remover and might set a rough bevel. 4000 grit sets a good bevel. Higher grits polish the bevel.