Thread: A little experiment

This is more for people who either use or have tried Arkansas stones to finish on.

I have tried Arks in the past and they were just not my thing. I don't think there is much variation in terms of edge from either a hard black or translucent but I may be wrong.

I found the edges to be very nice, skin friendly and keen but really no better than a really good Coti,Jnat or Escher.
I have tried them polished up and at 600 w/d with oil and with water.
I found them painfully slow in use.
Recently I picked up a Norton Hard Arkansas (green label, vintage) black slipstone (2.6 - S.G). My thinking was to use the large radius edge as a hone. It is 3/8 across at the large radius side and 5" long.
I used w/d to 600 then 1000 to "dress" that rounded edge. I also lapped the flatter side of the two to 600 and can use that as well.
The radius edge just expedited the whole process IMO.

With 100 strokes on an only 5" stone the edge had been transformed to the Ark stone edge. Weight of blade combined with the extra pressure invoked because of the radius it was much quicker than in the past.
It actually worked pretty well and of course it touches every part of the blade when honing given the small contact area.

Has anyone else tried or even considered this?

The technique of using a radiused edge has been around for a long time. It does remove steel faster but since all the pressure is focused on a very small portion of the edge that makes the edge of the razor much easier to microchip.
I used this method years ago by rounding over the edges of various waterstones or taking a piece of pipe or broomstick
and wrapping sandpaper around it.
I like the method for rapid removal at the coarser grits but I find it too aggressive at the higher grits. At those higher grits, more than 4000, It always resulted in the microchipping of the edge. Controlling the amount of pressure you use is crucial.

Just my 2¢

Originally Posted by randydance062449

The technique of using a radiused edge has been around for a long time. It does remove steel faster but since all the pressure is focused on a very small portion of the edge that makes the edge of the razor much easier to microchip.
I used this method years ago by rounding over the edges of various waterstones or taking a piece of pipe or broomstick
and wrapping sandpaper around it.
I like the method for rapid removal at the coarser grits but I find it too aggressive at the higher grits. At those higher grits, more than 4000, It always resulted in the microchipping of the edge. Controlling the amount of pressure you use is crucial.

Just my 2¢

I am certainly NOT for the convex stone thing!!
My thinking with the radius on an Ark was that they typically work best with some pressure.
So far - no chipping whatsoever in use. I use a proper microscope and can't see any troubles.
Weight of blade only of course in use but that still translates to alot more pressure than normal.
Like I said, I have never been a fan of them anyway from past experience. Its not that its a bad edge but it just takes too long and that takes the fun out of honing for me.This really expedites it so it is now an option for finishing that isn't so labourious.
Slip stones are much cheaper to purchase as well so could be an option for others.

Slip stones are made for sharpening things with curved edges.

Within reason like maybe a slightly smiling edge I don't like them in a "straight razor".

Originally Posted by 32t

Slip stones are made for sharpening things with curved edges.

Within reason like maybe a slightly smiling edge I don't like them in a "straight razor".

I know. Its a workaround for a slow stone.
Its side(flat) is still a 5X2 stone Ark.
I'm a Carpenter of 30 years and I have never used one for sharpening or honing anything - including lathe tools or carving tools.

Here is a carpenture fun one

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cdDSkDjyolQ

I have used a trans slip stone radius quite a bit, mainly for old warped or honed out blades with uneven geometry; it seems like it's almost always Sheffield blades that have that issue for me. Maybe that's just happenstance.

I never had the problem with microchipping but I can see how that could be a problem with lower grit stones. Not sure why it would be with higher grit. Not that I'm questioning the validity of that; just never seen it or thought too much about it.

Arks are my favorite finisher, especially for vintage American blades both razors and knives but also chisels. Yes they are slow but I use a method that speeds the process. Besides, I find honing to be one of those meditative or maybe introspective (some would say "zen" but I hate that use of that word) tasks where you can become lost in it and offload the mental ballast. For that purpose Arks are perfect. Then at the end your task reward is that atom splitting edge that can be too keen if overdone. I especially like the full Ark progression starting with a washita (usually a small calico I inherited from my Dad) and ending on a black...or sometimes a trans depending on my whim at that moment. I also find little difference in results from the two. I always chalked any difference up to circumstantial.

Originally Posted by PaulFLUS

I have used a trans slip stone radius quite a bit, mainly for old warped or honed out blades with uneven geometry; it seems like it's almost always Sheffield blades that have that issue for me. Maybe that's just happenstance.

I never had the problem with microchipping but I can see how that could be a problem with lower grit stones. Not sure why it would be with higher grit. Not that I'm questioning the validity of that; just never seen it or thought too much about it.

Arks are my favorite finisher, especially for vintage American blades both razors and knives but also chisels. Yes they are slow but I use a method that speeds the process. Besides, I find honing to be one of those meditative or maybe introspective (some would say "zen" but I hate that use of that word) tasks where you can become lost in it and offload the mental ballast. For that purpose Arks are perfect. Then at the end your task reward is that atom splitting edge that can be too keen if overdone. I especially like the full Ark progression starting with a washita (usually a small calico I inherited from my Dad) and ending on a black...or sometimes a trans depending on my whim at that moment. I also find little difference in results from the two. I always chalked any difference up to circumstantial.

Thanks Paul, You are the only person I have ever heard of that has also tried it.
It sure would help with geometry issue razors and I could the chipping Randy mentions from the lower grit happening as well.

I used this method years ago by rounding over the edges of various waterstones or taking a piece of pipe or broomstick
and wrapping sandpaper around it.

I have used this method for the curved blade in the knife block as well as I don't have a diamond rod