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  1. 10-03-2007, 03:36 PM #1
    superfly
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    Quote Originally Posted by izlat View Post
    If new chips are forming I think you may have failed to remove all the bad steel from the old oxidized edge (that's what Nenad was saying, I assume)

    Cheers
    Ivo
    yep, true. All bad steel must go...

    Nenad
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  2. 10-03-2007, 04:12 PM #2
    Friggin Joe
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    Quote Originally Posted by superfly View Post
    yep, true. All bad steel must go...

    Nenad
    Ok. I'll put it on clearance sale then.
    This appears to be the issue.
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  3. 10-03-2007, 05:23 PM #3
    dylandog
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    Quote Originally Posted by Friggin Joe View Post
    Ok. I'll put it on clearance sale then.
    This appears to be the issue.
    Whoa, sounds drastic. I'd say just take it to some low grits and get down to good steel.

    That's what Superfly means by "bad steel's gotta go," unless I'm mistaken.
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  4. 10-03-2007, 05:54 PM #4
    Friggin Joe
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    I was joking about "all bad steel must go" being put on clearance sale.
    I like that blade more than most family members.
    I'll hit the 1000 grit japanese stone later.
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  5. 10-03-2007, 06:04 PM #5
    dylandog
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    Sorry, I'm a bit dimwitted today...
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  6. 10-03-2007, 07:47 PM #6
    superfly
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    I usually start on 800 or 1200 grit sandpaper, doublesticktaped to a piece of glass. It cuts VERY fast, and leaves a great edge.

    On e-bay finds that are not that drastically damaged, just start on a N4K, and perfect your stroke over lot's of reps, although you'll be finished in 20-30 strokes if you use the sandpaper method...

    Nenad
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  7. 10-04-2007, 05:20 AM #7
    randydance062449
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    The approach that I follow is to use the least aggressive approach first. In this case I would use the TOS (preferred) or the N4K.
    It is not unusual to have some microchips develop after shaving. My guide is to not worry bout it unless it is uncomfortable to shave with.

    Just my two cents.
    Randolph Tuttle, a SRP Mentor for residents of Minnesota & western Wisconsin
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