Thread: DMTs and bevel creation

I've recently begun using a DMT 1200 for bevel creation. I've noticed a similar problem that I used to have with sandpaper. I only rarely hit the whole bevel with an even stroke. Using the magic marker, it's almost always the same: relatively little contact at the toe. When I used sandpaper, I resorted to cutting a narrow strip (1 1/2") and using it like a narrow hone to ensure full contact. But I'm a little puzzled about how to approach this with a 3" DMT.

I'm tempted to sell this and get a narrow DMT. But I'm sure there's something basic I'm missing, because everyone seems to do their bevel creation on wide hones or 3" sandpaper. I'm using the rolling hone method, by the way, but without really exaggerating the rolling motion I just don't hit the toe much.

I should mention this is mostly a problem with 1/4 and 1/2-hollows, and smaller razors seem to present more of a challenge as well. My big full-hollow fillies for example are not a problem.

It's weird, I've never really heard anyone else having this problem.

I find that problem if there is any hint of a smile to the edge. The 2 4/8 quarter and half hallows both have smiles and I have to use the side of my King 1200 for them.

Without seeing the blades thats about all I can offer. Hope things work out

Newbie me, but I thought it might be possible to grind the edge (so it lays flat) using a coarse stone. This as opposed to having to deal with it from now own.

I do use the narrowest DMT I could find, Curtis - 2"

Maybe you can try to hone just the toe section on the end of the hone. Use the marker to get a feel of the stroke that would give you good contact. The good news - this hone eats metal fast, so you can establish new bevel with fewer strokes. If you have to - you can mark the toe edge after every stroke... Sure - it's a PITA, but I don't know what else to suggest

I think Josh Earl mentioned something about using just the end of his 3" DMT for cases like this...

Cheers
Ivo

I have noticed that some razors seem to have this problem--particularly the heavy grinds and razors with a smile or "stubbed toes and heels." With heavier razors, there's just more steel to remove to get to that perfect edge. I get fooled sometimes by these and end up test-shaving with an edge that's still a ways off from ready...

I've evolved a stroke that pretty much takes care of any weirdness in the blade. It's a combination of all the variations on the standard stroke that are discussed here. I start with the normal X pattern motion. I combine that with the rolling hone stroke, and in some cases I tip the scales ever so slightly downward, letting the toe rise a tiny bit off the hone. You have to keep the pressure really light with this, but it works very well. You're basically doing an X pattern with just the outer 1/2 or so of the hone. I drag the toe until it goes off the edge of the hone completely. I also add a sweeping/slicing motion, so I'm starting with the heel leading and finishing with the toe leading.

Often, I'll find that just one side of the toe or heel has a tiny irregularity in the bevel. In those cases I'll do some back and forth honing with very light pressure in that one spot to get rid of the double bevel.

You don't really need marker to see what's going on with the edge once you get the hang of eyeballing it. Use a strong, single-point light source like a desk lamp--you can see a lot that way.

Good luck,
Josh

Thanks guys – this is all super helpful. I'm sort of wondering why I didn't get the 6x2, but then Josh's technique sounds like the way forward.

I have both the 8x3 and the 6x2 versions of the 1200-grit. If I were only maintaining a few razors, I might use the 6x2. But when I'm doing a few razors at a sitting, I always grab the 8x3.

With some razors, the hone would have to be even narrower, like 1", before width would matter. On problem blades I always just use the edge.

Josh