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Thread: Norton 4000/8000 prep
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01-22-2008, 12:35 AM #11
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01-22-2008, 12:35 AM #12
Wet/Dry Sandpaper. Save good money for good razors and good strops. Lapping stones, optics, blah, blah, blah . . .
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01-22-2008, 12:38 AM #13
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01-22-2008, 12:48 AM #14
Try craftsmanstudio for the D8C, just look around.
Beyond the Norton you might want a finishing stone, fine barber hone, or a pasted paddle. Mostly a matter of personal preference.
When you start sharpening, mark your edge with a marker to easily see when you get the bevel to the edge. You might wanna use a magnifier to see it easily. Cheap photographer's loupe works for me. Lotsa' good posts already cover all those details.
Good Luck,
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01-22-2008, 01:22 AM #15
What about one of these? Dia-Sharp Stone 6" Coarse
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=226
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01-22-2008, 01:25 AM #16
I have the 3"x8" model (D8C). It will cover twice the surface area of the 6" model.
Your call.
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01-22-2008, 01:27 AM #17
It's also twice the price. Do you think this would effect stroping the hone in any way?
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01-22-2008, 01:36 AM #18
Twice the surface area means twice the diamonds available and more room to work the hone on. I prefer the larger size for flattening purposes.
If it was only for sharpening knives or razors I'd just as soon have the 2"x6". For flattening your Norton I would pick the 3"x8" by a wide margin.
But it's still your call...
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01-22-2008, 01:41 AM #19
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01-22-2008, 03:33 AM #20
When I first read your post, Alan, I thought you were answering his question just above your post as to whether a finishing stone finer than the 8000 Norton side was recommended. I reread and understand you're suggesting he stick to wet/dry for lapping his Norton and not for polishing his edges.
IMO the extremely high grits of wet/dry needed for polishing edges is cost prohibitive fairly quickly. Even 2000 grit wet/dry is pricey let alone the grits on up to 12,000. I don't think you were suggesting polishing on wet/dry, but I thought I'd answer a potential question before it may end up being asked.
I really like your suggestion about concentrating on good strops to start out. As a newb who went off the deep end for hones, feeding a serious case of HAD, I have suggested to others more green than I that they master stropping first. A person simply can not shave with a straight razor without stropping effectively, but a person CAN shave without a hone provided they care for a keen edge.